| Gunflint Snowshoeing
Trekking the Gunflint Trail in the Ojibwe way
By Ann Mershon
Schree ... schree ... schree ... schree ...
The elemental winter experience.
Snowshoeing.
Years ago, Ojibwe Indians crafted snowshoes to follow deer paths through stands of birch and pine, stalking winter sustenance. They surely paused to marvel at snow–laden spruce or to scrutinize the drama of meandering mouse tracks terminating at the impression of an owl's wings on the snow.
Winter dramas unfold as you trek through the wilderness on snowshoes, whether you choose to follow established trails or pursue a set of moose tracks. Snowshoeing is free–form exercise, and the Gunflint Trail offers endless opportunities for snowshoe enthusiasts.
The Gunflint Trail
The historic Gunflint Trail stretches north from Grand Marais, Minn., offering access to a pristine wilderness much like that the Ojibwe
traveled many years before the Gunflint existed. Just a hundred years ago, it was a mere cart path established by prospectors seeking their fortunes in ore up at Gunflint Lake and Round Lake. Loggers were next to use the trail, hauling huge timbers out of the woods and down to Lake Superior. Finally, in the 30s and 40s, tourists discovered the natural beauty of the area, and the Gunflint became a playground for fishermen, canoeists and hunters. The Boundary Waters Canoe Area was
established in the 60s, with the majority of its entry points along the Gunflint.
Accessing the Wilderness
Snowshoes, skis and dogsleds offer the only winter access to the BWCAW's lakes, portages and trails – acres of quiet, snow–blanketed
wilderness. (Day permits are easily accessible and required.)
Eight lodges along the 60–mile Gunflint Trail feature snowshoeing as part of their winter menu, with snowshoe rentals running from $5 to $16 a day. Even for the avid cross country skier, snowshoeing provides a welcome change of pace and a unique opportunity for off–trail exploration. The snowshoeing season runs from December through March, often longer than the ski season.
Snowshoers can choose from nine designated snowshoe trails along the Gunflint, trek out on established hiking trails, or take their own lead.
"I'm one of those who takes a map and just heads out into the woods," said Gunflint Trail Association Director Judie Johnson. The beauty of snowshoes is they can get you nearly anywhere you want to go, at any rate you choose. Snowshoeing is easy to learn, it's good aerobic exercise, it's quiet and it's invigorating. Anyone can follow a deer trail
through the woods, seeking spots where they've bedded down under sweeping pines or cedars, and perhaps even discover a discarded antler. Gunflint snowshoers are likely to spot signs of wolves, deer, moose, rabbits, rodents and even the occasional lynx.
Trails and Lodges
The multi–use George Washington Memorial Pines Trail sits at the south end of the Gunflint Trail, just eight miles above Grand Marais. This 3K
(2 mile) loop guides you through pine forests and cedar stands, and part of the trail follows the Elbow Creek. Be prepared to meet cross country skiers and skijorers along this trail (as well as the occasional moose). Many snowshoers leave the trail to explore the creekbed in search of animal tracks. Creeks and swampy areas often offer the best wildlife action, since everything from mice to moose is attracted to them year–round.
The mid–trail area is known as the "snowbelt" of Cook County. Because of the terrain, snowstorms often dump the most snow about halfway up the Gunflint, so the best snow is found about a half–hour up the trail.
Bearskin Lodge and Golden Eagle Lodge share a vast network of cross country ski trails (over 70K) piston–bully groomed with a wide skating area between two sets of tracks. Snowshoers are welcome to use the center swath, as long as they don't mess up the ski tracks. There's room
for all on these incredible, scenic trails that meander around East Bearskin, Bear Cub, Quiver, Bow, Ruby, Aspen and Flour lakes.
Golden Eagle Lodge also offers a designated snowshoe trail. Big Foot Trail runs across Flour Lake, through spruce and balsam stands, over eskers left by the glaciers and past remnants of an old forest fire. The lodge offers snowshoes for sale, as well as rental, and snowshoes are included with cabin rentals.
Three lodges on Poplar Lake cater to snowshoers: Trail Center, Boundary Country Trekking and Old Northwoods Lodge. Trail Center rents snowshoes and cabins, but it is best known for its rustic restaurant, a favorite stopping point for most trail enthusiasts after a trek.
Boundary Country Trekking (Poplar Lake) has three designated snowshoe trails: The Creek Trail, the BWCAW Swamp Lake Trail and the Tim Knopp Trail. Owner Barb Young said, "The short, little Creek
Trail is my favorite. It's just a quarter–mile loop, but it's a nice trek along the north side of Poplar Creek, up a ridge and back down to the creek." In addition to their three cabins, the Youngs offer the Poplar Creek Guesthouse, their new B&B.
The Old Northwoods Lodge has both housekeeping cabins and a B&B lodge, and it has just opened its restaurant. Proprietors Yelena and Gale Quistad ask trekkers to call ahead if they want to stop for a meal.
A particularly popular snowshoe trek near Poplar is the South Lake Trail, which meets the Gunflint on the north side near the Rockwood Resort sign. It's about a 3-mile trek one way to South Lake, one of the many border lakes in the area.
Another popular trail for snowshoeing is Honeymoon Bluff, a short, but steep, hike to an incredible vista over Hungry Jack Lake. To reach this trail, take County Road 66 toward Golden Eagle Lodge. A forest
service sign designates the trail, which is near the Flour Lake Campground.
Further up the trail, Gunflint Lodge, Gunflint Pines and Heston's Lodge (all on Gunflint Lake) cater to snowshoers.
Gunflint Lodge's network of trails in the basin behind the lodge are open to the public, and the lodge offers a special snowshoer's "Dream–Come–True" package with accommodations, snowshoes, meals and guided treks. The Kerfoots have owned this lodge for
generations, and they take pride in their deluxe accommodations and quality restaurant.
Gunflint Pines, next door to Gunflint Lodge, offers cabin rentals and snowshoe rentals. Shari Baker, co–owner with her husband Bob, used to work at Gunflint Lodge and sends showshoers over to the trails behind Gunflint. Lookout Point is about a 3/4–mile trek with a beautiful view, and for the more courageous, she recommends High Cliffs, which
adds a steep quarter–mile to an incredible vista overlooking Gunflint and Magnetic Lake.
Even further down Gunflint is Heston's Lodge, a small, third–generation, family–owned lodge with seven winterized cabins and snowshoe rentals. Snowshoers have access to two great trails. One is a trek along the South Rim of Gunflint to Bridal Falls along the Border Route Trail. This is a day trek, 4 miles each way. Their shorter trail (a 3–mile loop) is the
Brice–Breon Trail, which runs from the public landing at Loon Lake and loops up to the Gunflint's South Rim.
According to Barb Gecas at Heston's, snowshoers made a valiant wildlife rescue last winter. While trekking along the Seagull River around the Tip of the Trail Campground, they came across a moose calf stuck in the ice. After a fruitless call to the DNR, they realized it would be up to them to save the moose. They proceeded to throw heavy rocks out
onto the ice, hoping to break a path. The moose calf became more and more agitated as they worked, and between the added weight on the ice and the nervous movement of the calf, it finally broke free and clambered to shore.
For more information on any of the Gunflint Lodges, go to http://www.gunflint–trail.com/winter/snowshoe.html.
Rent or Buy?
Of course, it's a good idea to rent snowshoes before you decide to buy, since snowshoes run from $125 upwards to $500 a pair. You'll need to choose between the natural wood snowshoes and the more modern, aluminum–framed models, and you might want to try both out on snow before making a decision. Some lodges offer a variety of styles, and snowshoes are on sale at a number of local shops.
If you're interested in really getting back to the elemental snowshoe experience, check out the snowshoe kits from Country Ways in Minneapolis (1–800/216–0710). They offer many styles of snowshoes and snowshoe furniture, either in kits or completed, and their favorite Ojibwe kit with bindings runs $130 ($90 for children).
No matter what your athletic ability or skill level, you can enjoy the winter wilderness on snowshoes, a gentle, peaceful way to experience nature. Enjoy!
GUNFLINT TRAIL LODGES THAT CATER TO SNOWSHOERS
Bearskin Lodge: Housekeeping cabins, lodge units, restaurant, snowshoes $11–$16/day; 1–800/338–4170.
Golden Eagle Lodge: Housekeeping cabins, snowshoes $11–$16/day (included with cabin rental); 1–800/346–2203.
Trail Center: Housekeeping cabins, restaurant, snowshoes $15/day; 218/388–2214.
Boundary Country Adventures: Housekeeping cabins, B&B, snowshoes $10/day; 1–800/322–8327.
Old Northwoods Lodge: Housekeeping cabins, B&B, restaurant, snowshoes $5/day; 1–800/682–8264.
Gunflint Lodge: Housekeeping & American plan cabins, restaurant, snowshoe packages, snowshoes $9/day; 800/328–3325.
Gunflint Pines Resort: Housekeeping cabins, small restaurant,
snowshoes $9/day; 800/533–5814.
Heston's Lodge: Housekeeping cabins, snowshoes $5/day; 800/338–7230.
For Web links, visit http://www.gunflint-trail.com/winter/snowshoe.html.
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