| Turtle River trail section in Three Island County Park, Bemidji, Minn.
Photo by Monte Draper |
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Ski Bemidji
Great snow, six trail systems and over 80 kilometers skiing – what more could you ask for?
By Bruce Slinkman What do excellent cross country ski trails, quality community ski events, predictable, long-lasting snowfall and Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox have in common? The answer, of course, as more and more Midwest skiers know, is Bemidji, Minn.
In recent years, Bemidji has been touted as "Minnesota's best-kept ski destination secret." The biggest part to this
secret has been that four-letter word that skiers use all the time: s-n-o-w. While much of the upper Midwest has suffered through the past two winters with the curse of no or little snow, or major meltdowns resulting in marginal trail conditions, Bemidji can boast very good to excellent skiing from Christmas well into March these past two winters which is the historical snowfall pattern for the Bemidji area. Bemidji's success in the snow-retention business can largely be
attributed to its northern location (220 miles north of the Twin Cities) and thus colder average temperatures. The local saying is, "when we get snow it stays – to the end of March and sometimes April."
Of course, great skiing is more than just consistent snowfall. Ski trails, lodging accommodations, eateries, ski events, alternative activities and evening entertainment round out the prescription for destination skiing. Bemidji offers all of the
above and even more. In his popular guide book, Cross Country Ski Vacations, Jonathan Wiesel says, "Bemidji is a community committed to xc skiing or, more accurately, to making the sport accessible and fun for both visitors and residents."
There are six public ski trail systems totaling over 80 kilometers in the immediate Bemidji area. All are located within 15
miles of each other and offer the entire range of skiing opportunities from a gentle, lighted city trail to challenging and technically difficult expert trails. Backcountry skiing or snowshoeing opportunities are unlimited in the Bemidji area on the hundreds of thousands of acres of surrounding public land, including the Chippewa National Forest, and state and county forest lands.
Bemidji is located in the transition zone between the western prairie and the eastern woodlands, which results in ski trails that journey through the most diverse forests in the Midwest – a smorgasbord of balsam, birch, red pine, white pine and jack pine, aspen, maple, oak, spruce and cedar. Just 30 miles south of Bemidji is Itasca State Park, headwaters of the Mississippi River, and winter home to 50 kilometers of ski trail; sections of which pass through some of the most
majestic old-growth white and Norway pine stands in the state.
All Bemidji ski trails and the Itasca trail system are state grant-in-aid trails, which require skiers 16 and older to have a Minnesota Ski Pass. The six Bemidji ski trails are groomed and maintained by the dedicated volunteers of the Bemidji Area Cross Country Ski Club. The club has earned a well-deserved reputation for providing some of the highest quality
grooming of public ski trails to be found anywhere. The club also produces a very user-friendly and easy-to-read ski map and weekly trail condition reports. The following are the individual descriptions for the Bemidji and Itasca State Park ski trails. All trailheads have plowed parking areas and portable toilets or indoor facilities nearby.
Lake Bemidji State Park, 11km, easy/intermediate.
In 1923, strong local support by the Bemidji Civic and Commerce Association helped create this park to preserve a tract of virgin red pine, as these stands were fast disappearing. Today, skiers are able to benefit from the foresightedness of those early community leaders. Bring a snack, and after skiing this double-tracked, classically-groomed trail, warm up in the visitor center, open daily.
Bathrooms are available, and the woodstove adds a nice cozy touch. Lake Bemidji State Park is nestled on the north end of Lake Bemidji and is accessed off County Road 20. For current skiing conditions and park information call 218/755-3844. A Minnesota State Park vehicle permit is required to enter the park.
Movil Maze Ski Trail, 14km, intermediate/expert.
This trail system, 8 miles north of Bemidji just off U.S. 71, offers intermediate and advanced skiers challenging downhills and long, steady uphills. This is a favorite trail for racers who want to condition their bodies for ski races. In fact, the "Maze" was developed as part of the 100km Minnesota Finlandia trail system in 1978. Now the trail is groomed with one classical track and a skating lane. The "Maze" is primarily a northern hardwood mix of maple, basswood, oak and birch,
with some red pine and other conifers.
C.V. Hobson Memorial Forest, 7km, easy/intermediate.
Owned by Bemidji State University and dedicated in 1948 for environmental research and recreation, this trail has special appeal for beginner and intermediate skiers. Hobson trails will take you through gently rolling hardwoods,whispering pine plantations, and tamarack bogs. The trails are double-tracked for classical skiing only. Hobson Forest is located
across from the entrance to Concordia Language Villages, nine miles northeast of Bemidji on County Road 20.
Lighted Montebello Trail, 4.5km, easy.
This easy-going trail is located in a wooded area within the city of Bemidji. It is groomed with a single classical track and a skating lane. The trailhead parking lot is located less than two blocks south of the Paul Bunyan Mall at the south end
of the Nielson-Reise Arena. It is equipped with a warming house and portable toilet. One 2km loop of the trail is lighted until 10 p.m.
Three Island County Park, 20km, easy/intermediate.
Three Island County Park has broad appeal to skiers of all abilities. The gently rolling trails are groomed for both skating and classical skiing. The trails wind through a mosaic of northern Minnesota forest types, including red and white pine,
aspen, hardwoods, balsam, spruce and cedar. The scenic centerpiece of Three Island is the Turtle River. Here the trails frame a snowcapped, open-flowing river corridor offering vistas of exceptional beauty. The gentle terrain of the park makes the trails great for beginners, yet the length of the system also allows for a vigorous workout.
Located a few miles north of the Movil Maze, the Three Island trails are accessed by two parking lot trailheads. The
south parking lot is along the Woodhaven Resort road, which is off County Road 22. The North lot, adjacent to the Turtle River section, is located one mile down the Three Island County Park road which is off County Road 23.
Buena Vista, 25km, intermediate/expert.
This scenic trail through a mix of pine, hardwoods, and bogland is located entirely on private property within the same
complex as the Buena Vista Downhill Ski Area. This facility features a chalet and snack bar, toilets and other amenities. The Buena Vista Snowjourn and Minnesota Finlandia ski races are held here and the challenging hills make it most suitable for intermediate to expert skiers. Trails are wide and groomed for both skating and classical styles. Trails on the east side (13km) are somewhat more gentle, while those on the west side (12km) are technically more difficult and
challenging for the expert skier. Buena Vista is located 12 miles north of Bemidji on County Road 15.
Itasca State Park, 50km, easy/intermediate.
Minnesota's first state park is a wonderland of lakes and virgin pine forests surrounding the source of the mighty Mississippi River. Itasca Park contains trails for all levels of skier ability. The west and south park sections have
topography where skiers will find steep trails and dips created by deposits from the most recent glacial retreat. East park trails are in a landscape that was created by older glacial activity and these trails are broadly sloping and somewhat flat. Perimeter park trails are groomed for skating; interior trails are tracked for classical. The Forest Inn, open daily during the winter season, contains vending machines, bathrooms and information. There is an American Youth Hostel within the
park, with skiing right from the door, but consider coming midweek because weekends are booked long in advance. Itasca State Park is located 30 miles south of Bemidji on U.S. 71. The phone number for park headquarters is 218/266-2100. A Minnesota State Park vehicle permit is required to enter the park.
Bemidji not only embraces cross country skiing with its great trails and snow conditions, but also with community and
youth focused ski events, as well as the internationally recognized Minnesota Finlandia Ski Marathon. One of the most popular of the many community ski events are the two candlelight ski tours held around New Year's and mid-February on a Saturday evening (Jan.1 and Feb.12 this year) at Lake Bemidji State Park. Sponsored by the ski club, these tours feature 5-10km of candle luminary lighted classical trails, hot cider, munchies, and often local folk musicians. The ski club
also conducts a ski instruction program, Sunday Ski School, over five Sundays in January and February for youth and beginning adult skiers utilizing facilities at the Bemidji Middle School and Montebello Trail.
The 21st annual Minnesota Finlandia Ski Marathon will be held this winter over the weekend of February 18-20. The Minn Finn is a big time ski race/event attracting elite and citizen skiers from across the nation with down-home Paul
Bunyan-style warmth and charm. Bemidji's consistent and stable snowfall is now earning Finlandia the reputation as the event to go to for the best course conditions of the major Midwest ski races. Held on the challenging trails around the Buena Vista ski area, the Finlandia is one of very few American Ski Marathon Series events where one can park within 50 yards of the start/finish area.
The Finlandia organization also sponsors the Montebello Niteski event which features adult races and a kids tour on the lighted Montebello Trail. This year the event will be held Jan. 21. Bemidji's oldest ski event, the 24th annual Buena Vista Snowjourn, concludes the Bemidji ski events season on March 4. Now hosted by the Buena Vista Lumberjack Hall of Fame, the new date and a new format for Snowjourn this year promotes a return to the family-friendly ski events of yesteryear.
Out-of-town skiers will find a variety of resorts, motels and bed and breakfasts in the Bemidji area that will accommodate most all tastes and budgets. Bemidji's many motels eagerly welcome cross country skiers and some offer skier discounts. The Northern Inn on the west edge of Bemidji has a large recreation area featuring a pool, whirlpool, sauna, exercise room and an excellent in-house restaurant. National franchise motels, all located near Bemidji's west end shopping mall,
include Best Western, Super 8, Comfort Inn, AmericInn Inn and Holiday Inn Express. All of these motels have either a pool, sauna or both and are only minutes from the lighted Montebello Trail. The Edgewater motel complex on Lake Bemidji and the Bel Air motel located directly across from the Paul Bunyan Mall round out Bemidji's motel offerings.
There are three bed and breakfasts in the Bemidji area, including Lakewatch and Ilyne's Lake Boulevard Inn, both of
which overlook Lake Bemidji near the downtown area. Located adjacent to the Three Island County Park ski trail system is the Beltrami Shores Resort Bed and Breakfast. Two area resorts are open year-round and cater to cross country skiers. Ruttgers Birchmont Lodge on the north end of Lake Bemidji offers townhouse-style lodging, 2km of ski trail and has a fitness center including pool, hot tub and exercise rooms. A Place in the Woods Resort, located 12 miles north of Bemidji
on Turtle River Lake near the Three Island County Park ski trails, features charming log cabins, hot tubs, a wood-fired sauna and 6km of classical ski trails.
What to do following an excellent day of skiing on the Bemidji area ski trails? The sky is the limit with all the great eateries, shopping, cultural and sporting events that are ongoing during Bemidji's winter season. Downtown Bemidji is
spectacularly lit with over a quarter-million white and colored lights on trees and buildings. Called Bemidji First City Lights, this festive lighting attraction keeps the Bemidji waterfront area (Paul and Babe's home) and the downtown district in a holiday mood from Thanksgiving to Valentine's Day.
Bemidji's fine dining restaurants include the Union Station, Tutto Bene and Stats Minnesota Diner in the downtown area
and the Backyard, Peppercorn and Gangelhoff's on the west end of the city. Bemidji has a vibrant downtown retail area including many specialty and gift stores. The Bemidji Woolen Mills, located on the west edge of downtown, is a must stop for any skier in search of top-quality traditional ski wear. The Home Place Bike and Ski store is Bemidji's full-service cross country ski shop. As is true with most small-town ski communities, the Home Place serves as the area's ski Grand
Central Station for the the most current ski trail conditions information, waxing advice and all equipment needs, including ski rentals. The Paul Bunyan Mall and adjacent retail stores offer a complete range of shopping opportunities.
Evening and weekend activities or entertainment in Bemidji include music and theater performances at the Paul Bunyan Playhouse, Headwaters School of Music and the Arts, and Bemidji State University. Movie-goers are treated with seven
choices of the current movies at the Amigo theater complex. Bemidji abounds with sporting events featuring Bemidji State University men's and women's basketball and Division I hockey. With a snow plentiful winter that often lasts half of the year, it is no small wonder why the Bemidji community has passionately embraced cross county skiing both for local residents and out-of-town visitors.
Bemidji Fast Facts - Population: 11,494 (city) 36,090 (county).
- Average Annual Snowfall: 41.1 inches.
- Distance from other regional cities: Mpls./St. Paul - 220 miles, Duluth - 160 miles, Grand Forks - 113 miles.
- Weekly ski trail conditions and Bemidji ski trail maps reported on the web at www.skinnyski.com or www.north-stars.org.
For more information about skiing in Bemidji, including weekly trail reports, trail maps, events calendar and lodging
accommodations etc., contact the Bemidji Visitors & Convention Bureau, P.O. Box 66, Bemidji, MN 56619; 1-800/458-2223 or on the web at www.visitbemidji.com.
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