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'Shoeing on the edge If you're expecting a story about a hyper-adventurous snowshoer who does death-defying feats, such as summiting mountains, crossing snow bridges over deep crevasses or glissading down 70-degree slopes, you will need to look elsewhere. We do not have such mountains, crevasses or slopes in the Midwest. Well, slopes we have. But I don't live on that kind of "edge." When I speak of snowshoeing on the edge, I'm referring to snowshoe hikes that take me to areas high above the landscape and offer extraordinary vistas; views any outdoor adventurer would gladly seek but cannot find except on snowshoes. This is truly living life on the edge. I do enjoy heights. I have always found it thrilling to climb up lookout towers at various state parks. Likewise, I search for golden opportunities to locate landscapes that rise to a ridge, bluff, cliff or hilltop overlooking some magnificent landform or scenic waterway below. I truly enjoy when snow covers the ground, frozen water, trees and all landmarks that lay below. In the past I have written about the bluff overlooking Lake Michigan and Snail Shell Harbor at Fayette Historic State Park. I have mentioned the hilltops with scenic woodland views in the Levis/Trow Mounds Recreational Area near Neillsville, Wisconsin. My column about Rib Mountain State Park identified outlooks that offer spectacular views of Wausau and the surrounding countryside. And I've described scenic ridges that overlook miles of a northwoods forest in the Trap Hills of the U.P. Now I will introduce you to a few more treasured "high" locations that I've discovered in my snowshoe hiking adventures. One location is a remote backcountry ridge in Michigan. Two other locations are close to civilization and a major river. Lake of the Clouds in upper Michigan Following a hearty lunch of cheese, venison sausage and crackers, six of my friends and I stepped outside a rented rustic cabin located just yards away from the icy shore of Lake Superior. We were getting ready for an afternoon snowshoe hike. With our daypacks and snowshoes, we first hiked about two miles on a southwesterly trail in the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park in the U.P. We made our way to the Escarpment Trail. Author Jim DuFresne described the Escarpment Trail as "the crowning jewel of trails, not only in the Porkies but in all of Michigan and possibly the Midwest." Our goal was to follow the trail to the ridge that leads to the highest point – 1,600 feet above sea level. The escarpment is a four-mile long ridge overlooking the ever popular Lake of the Clouds some 400 feet below. This spot has been very popular among photographers in all seasons. The enchanting mile-long lake is nestled in a 60,000-acre old-growth forest of virgin pine and hemlock. One year in early fall, I backpacked in and camped overlooking this magnificence. This, however, would be the first time I took in the view come winter. As we began to ascent, the snow deepened. It became an increasing challenge the higher we climbed, so we took advantage of granola bar breaks and Kodak moments along the way. To our surprise as we rounded a forested curve, we got our first glimpse of the 300-acre Lake of the Clouds below and to the west. The landscape was draped in elegant white as far as we could see in all directions. To get to this wondrous location, take State Highway 64 north to State Highway 107 running parallel to Lake Superior and into the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park. (For more information about the park, call 906/885-5275.) Drive past the South Boundary Road about 1.5 miles. Just past the downhill ski area you will find a small plowed parking lot. You will have to hike two miles to the trailhead on State 107 since the road is not plowed beyond that point. And do watch out for snowmobiles. You will then come to the Government Peak Trailhead that leads to the Escarpment and Overlook Trails (snowmobiles aren't allowed here). Hike west up the Escarpment Trail and you will eventually come out looking down onto the Lake of the Clouds and the Big Carp River Valley. It is an adventure worth the effort to get there. View the Mississippi River from Minnesota Ten years ago, I lived in La Crosse, Wisconsin. I often marveled at the fact that all along the Mississippi River for miles in both directions are unbelievable views of the river, valley and coulees. On a recent return visit, I took an afternoon to drive across the bridge to Minnesota for a visit to Great River Bluffs State Park. This scenic 3,067-acre park is located a short distance west of La Crescent (which sits across the river from La Crosse) high up on the bluffs that overlook the Mississippi. I drove to the main parking lot, got out my Northern Lites and snowshoed toward the bluff a short distance from the lot. Eager to take in the view, I went directly to an overlook that was protected by a chest-high wooden fence. From there the river valley and bluffs to the north looked magnificent. I sat on a boulder next to an old white birch tree and appreciated the sight for quite some time. In that area of the park there are two named locations that offer great views. One is called the King and the other the Queen's Bluff. The park is made up of a mixed hardwood and pine forest and open prairies. In winter, trails in the park are mostly groomed for cross-country skiing. I found the trail that ran parallel to the bluff's edge to be the most enjoyable for snowshoeing. You can snowshoe anywhere in the park as long as you stay off the ski trails. Getting to this location is easy. Take U.S. Highway 61 west from La Crescent for about five miles or east out of Winona for 20 miles. The park is found off the intersection of County Trunk H/U.S. 61 and Interstate 90 by taking County Trunk 3 to the park entrance. For information, call the park office at 507/643-6849. A view across the river from Wisconsin Across the river in Wisconsin, just a few miles west of the small village of Trempealeau, is another favorite location of mine: Perrot State Park. This small gem of a 1,270-acre park offers camping, hiking, bike trails, canoeing, snowshoeing and more. I have seen bird migrations from this park, camped there and hiked its many trails. Although Perrot Ridge Trail is often recommended as a snowshoe destination, one of my favorite hikes is the Brady's Bluff North Trail that begins right behind the park's headquarters. The trail takes you to scenic Brady's Bluff that offers a view of the Mississippi River from above. This time, you will be looking from Wisconsin over to the Minnesota bluffs and the outskirts of Winona in the distant west. The hike up the forest trail is short but steep. You know you have reached the summit when you come upon a small shelter. This is your lookout location to check out the river below and Trempealeau Mountain just a short distance away. At the summit, there is a trail junction leading to Brady's Bluff East Trail that in turn will take you to the Perrot Ridge, offering yet more scenic views of the river below. If you decide to hike the Perrot Ridge Trail from the main parking area, you can begin your hike from the Riverview Trail that runs along the river or park your car at the small east parking lot, cross the park road and climb the circular 1.4 mile Perrot Ridge Trail. To get to the park, take Perrot State Park Road out of Trempealeau and go west along the river for three miles to the main parking lot. For more information, call the park at 608/534-6409. On the way out, stop for lunch or dinner at the ever-popular historic Trempealeau Hotel. From their back porch you will have a nice view of the river. It's one of my favorite stops after a nice hike. Great River Bluff State Park and Perrot State Park are only about 30 miles and a river apart. You could visit both sites in one day if you have the energy. Be careful on the edge I have snowshoed along many ridges and on many bluffs. But I do so with caution. There are a few recommendations I have for those who want to "snowshoe on the edge." First, as you hike along a ridge, do so at a safe distance from the edge and do not take any unnecessary chances. Getting a close view for a photo or a peek is not worth the risk of losing your life. Second, never stand on snow that is close to the edge of an overlook, cliff or bluff. Snow shelves may give the illusion of a safe ledge. But they are disasters waiting to happen. Stay away since the snow can easily collapse. Also, if there are signs posted that say "don't go beyond this point," do as the signs say. Park officials designate such areas for your protection. And don't risk hiking up hills that are beyond your physical capacity. If you are older, consult your doctor about your physical ability to hike and climb. Finally, learn first aid, especially wilderness first aid, and take along a first-aid kit on any snowshoe adventure. Carrying a small pack that also includes a map, compass, water, food, extra clothing, flashlight, rope, knife, whistle and matches is also advisable. Jim Joque is coordinator of disability services for the University of Wisconsin-Stevens Point. He is also an adventure education instructor teaching courses in camping, backpacking and snowshoeing, and a trip leader for the university's wilderness orientation program. Joque currently serves as education director for the United States Snowshoe Association and is a Leave No Trace master educator.
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