With studded tires, the author rides confidently across the sheer surface of a frozen lake.
Ride year-round
Challenge yourself just take these precautions
by Byron Kuster
If you're like many cyclists, you have a preconceived notion as to when the cycling season ends. For some, it's the end of September. For others, it's the first hard frost or Halloween, or maybe Thanksgiving. Others just want to ride a week or two longer than they did last year. Whatever the date, most Northland cyclists have hung up their bikes by December.
December is clearly a winter month and a time more for rebuilding a bike than for riding it. By December most fitness fanatics have already made the switch from cycling to skiing or to one of the other winter sports, for presumably good reasons. The daylight hours have shriveled to half of what they once were, snow and ice threaten to damage your bike and body if you disrespect them, and it's simply getting too
freakin' cold out. These three factors determine the end of the cycling season for most cyclists without much argument or question. But what if you wanted to ride all year? What if you wanted to commute to work this winter to save on gas money? What if you like the idea of challenging and conquering the elements that hold most people back?
It's time to question the assumptions. The fact is that winter cycling is very doable because of technological advances in lighting systems, tires and clothing. Winter cycling may not be for everyone, but for those who want to ride year-round, it's entirely possible. The adventurous of heart must be aware of the very real risks that winter riding poses, however, and deal
with them wisely. What follows is an attempt to look at the risks one at a time and find ways to minimize them.
When darkness falls, stay bright
Because it's dark out for up to 16 hours per day in the dead of winter, you will need a good rechargeable lighting system with enough candlepower to see the rusted muffler quietly waiting on the shoulder of the road for the inattentive; the bowling ball-size ice chunk sitting stealthlike ready to twist the handlebars out of your
hands; or the nearly invisible frozen snow berm left near a driveway ready to pitch you over the handlebars. In short, you need enough light to see what's on the road ahead of you.
Battery technology has come a long way over the past 10 years and many good lighting systems are available for $100 or less and decent headlamps for as little as $30. Even if you use AA batteries in a
not-so-expensive light, go rechargeable. They are much cheaper in the long run than regular batteries. If you can afford a better lighting system with an output of 10 watts or more, it's a good investment.
Fortunately, a winter lighting system is also useful for riding at night during the summer months, expanding your riding options year-round.
Besides being able to see the road, it's essential to make yourself visible to others. Cars are not expecting to
see a cyclist in the middle of winter. It seems like the brighter your headlight, the more others respect you. When car drivers see a bright light coming at them, they will afford you extra room. A dim light suggests weakness and drivers will crowd you and assume dominance.
Add a white strobe to your handlebar in addition to a headlamp. The flashing strobe will grab the motorist's attention more quickly. Being seen from behind is equally important. Mount more than one rear red blinker
on your bike to provide extra visibility and additional safety in case of a malfunction or dead battery in one of them.
Be sure to carry extra batteries and to recharge your batteries often. Remember, the colder it is, the shorter battery life. Batteries that last four hours at 20 degrees above zero will last about half as long at 20 degrees below zero.
It's also a good idea to place reflective tape on strategic areas of your bike (saddle stays, crank arms, fork
legs, handlebars, etc.), helmet and clothes so that you can be seen from all directions. Use red tape on the rear facing bike parts and white or amber on the forward facing parts.
Ice and snow? C'mon, stud!
Icy roads present another dangerous aspect of winter cycling. Although most roads are free of ice most of the time, when they aren't, icy conditions can't be ignored for long without consequence. Fortunately, getting
adequate traction on ice glazed roads is not hard to overcome thanks to studded tires.
There are a half dozen or so manufacturers of studded tires and most use steel studs. Steel is a relatively soft metal that wears out fairly quickly. It is also a cheap material, which is why steel studded tires are affordable around $35 each.Unfortunately, the corners of the studs round over and wear down fairly quickly, reducing their bite considerably.
Carbide studded tires are manufactured by one Finnish company, Nokian. Carbide, one of the hardest and most expensive metals, is often used on the cutting edges of higher end drill bits, saw blades and other cutting tools. Carbide studded tires last much longer than their steel counterparts, maintain their edge better, and are more economical in the long run.
The Nokian Extreme or the Freddie's Revenz are two of the best. Each has nearly 300 carbide studs that
bite into ice for a cyclist like crampons do for a mountain climber. You can ride across glare ice with them, and you'll think to yourself, "This shouldn't be possible!" while you're doing it.
Expect to get three to four years out of one set of carbide studded tires depending on how many miles you ride. If you can only afford one studded tire, mount it on the front. You don't want to lose control of the
front tire because, if you do, you'll probably go down. If the rear tire slides out, you can usually recover.
Studded tires are essential to making winter riding safe. Carbide studded tires are expensive, but not compared to an ambulance ride and a hospital bill. This is not the place to cut corners.
It's important to realize snow and ice varies in terms of slipperiness. Talk to any cross-country skier and he
or she will tell you that it takes much more energy to ski on cold snow than on warm snow because there is less glide.
Snow that falls when the temperatures are in the upper 20s is very slippery and fairly wet. The edges of the snowflakes are more rounded and they slide past each other more easily. The higher water content acts as a lubricant. Cold snow that squeaks when you walk on it is drier and actually abrasive. Consequently, when
you ride in warm, wet snow conditions, you have to be more cautious.
The slipperiness of ice also varies a lot. Obviously, the smoother the ice, the more slippery it is. The more textured the ice, the easier it is to grip. In general, the darker the ice, the more slippery it is. Whiter ice is less slippery. When choosing your line on an icy road, look for the more textured white ice.
Clothing not optional
Many people believe that it is too cold in the winter to bike comfortably. Staying warm isn't so hard if you understand the basic rules of dress and the importance of staying dry.
Dress in layers starting with a wicking fabric next to your skin. A good wind-proof, breathable outer shell (jacket and wind pants) is equally important. The numbers of layers in between these two and other clothing accessories should be determined by how cold it is.
Most winter cyclists initially make the mistake of overdressing. Fortunately, the cold of winter usually progresses incrementally, allowing people to find out what works for them as the temperature drops.
During your first season of riding, keep a written log of what you wear to be comfortable for each 10-degree band of temperature. Then the following year, you'll know what to wear when the temp drops
suddenly. As the first season progresses, make a note of any clothing or gear that you need to purchase or replace. At the end of the season, you'll be able to pick much of it up for the following year on clearance.
If the temperature drops 15 degrees or more and you have not ridden in temperatures that low, be careful. The difference between zero degrees and minus 15 is a lot in terms of staying warm. The difference between minus 15 and minus 30 is even greater.
If you dress so that you feel a little chilled during your first mile of riding, you're pretty close to getting it right. In time, you'll learn the difference between being chilled and being cold. You should expect to be chilled at times. But if you've dressed right, you shouldn't be cold too often.
When temperatures drop below 15 degrees, your face, hands and feet will be the hardest to keep warm.
Because much body heat can be lost from one's head, a thin hat that fits comfortably under a helmet is very important. Find one that is thin, breathable, warm and comfortable to wear. A face mask or balaclava that covers your neck and face will add a lot of warmth and will keep your skin from weathering like an old work boot. Add a neck warmer for more warmth.
Find breathable, wind-proof mitts to keep your hands warm. If nothing else, use leather "chopper" mittens
with the wool liners. On very cold days, add another glove or mitt inside the liner.
Biking shoes, wool socks and booties work fine down to 15 degrees or so as long as they aren't vented. It helps to have a pair of winter biking shoes that are a bit larger than your summer shoes to allow for extra thick socks. Below 10 degrees, wear regular winter boots on platform pedals and add extra socks as needed.
As you ride, you can fine-tune your body temperature by doing things like unzipping your jacket an inch or two, rolling up your jacket sleeves, or by adding or removing your balaclava, neck gator or liner gloves. Be aware that as you add layers to your hands and feet, you risk cutting off the circulation of blood and the warmth it carries.
On very cold days (below zero), leave no flesh exposed. Wear ski goggles and carry a couple of chemical
hand warmers along for emergencies. If you feel a burning sensation anywhere, do not ignore it. It is the sensation of skin in the early phase of frostbite.
There's no reason why a person can't ride safely in temperatures well below zero. You just need to take extra precautions.
A lesser ride, the better
Winter cycling on roads is hard on your bike, so don't ride your good bike. Exposing it to the harsh
combination of salt and sand will only wear it out. The salt dumped on roads can eat up exotic metals like magnesium, commonly found on the fork legs of mountain bikes. The sand spread out to help cars find traction will grind away at your chain, cassette and brake pads. Much of your bike will be worn out after a couple of winters.
It doesn't make sense to wear out an expensive bike when a cheap one will do. Ride one of your old
mountain bikes that is past its prime or pick up a used mountain bike at a rummage sale or secondhand store. They can be found for very reasonable prices.
One common problem with winter cycling in warm temperatures is the clogging of your rear cassette with snow. Wet snow thrown up by the front tire lands on the gear cluster in back where it gets packed into a solid mass. When this happens, the chain cannot engage fully with the cogs. It'll be obvious when this occurs
because you will experience a sudden onset of serious chain skip as if you were riding on a bike with a worn out drivetrain.
Usually you can shift to a lower gear (larger cog) and continue pedaling until that one freezes up. Eventually you will need to stop and clean out the snow from between the cogs. Fortunately this is easy to do if you have a thin tool such as an Allen wrench or flat bladed screwdriver. Simply flip the bike upside down and
remove the offending snow. Be sure to bring some sort of tool along for this purpose if you expect to be riding in wet, sticky snow. If you forget, you might be able to find a stick that is strong and thin enough to complete the task.
Take the road well traveled
The colder it is or the farther you need to commute, the more important it will be to have an emergency plan if something goes wrong. Know the location of places that you can pull into if you're having problems or
need to warm up. Carry chemical hand warmers, some basic tools, extra batteries for your blinkers and a cell phone.
Plan your route carefully. Choose the one with the widest shoulder, least traffic and the slower speeds even if it means that you have to travel farther. Use your eyes and your ears to keep track of where the cars are. Safety should be the deciding factor in most of the decisions you make.
Be prepared to ride into a snowbank to avoid a collision with a car. Find a balance between assertive and defensive riding. If you let the cars around you know what you intend to do, they will usually let you do it. If you are tentative about your intentions, they will often times get impatient and try to squeeze past you. Everyone knows who is going to lose if there is a showdown between a car and bike.
You will have to spend some money initially, but you will get years of use out of most of the gear. Of course, it would be easier to drive your car, but winter cycling isn't about what's easier. It's about using less gas, protecting the environment, saving money, staying in shape and having fun. And it's a chance to make a statement that you're not the type of person who lives within the limitations that hold most people back.
So buy a used bike and ride all year. There'll still be plenty of time during the winter months to get your summer bike in great shape for next year.
Minnesotan Byron Kuster commutes year-round to his job teaching at a state prison.
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