Realignment via kayak
Minnesota's Cuyuna Country opens up
by Vivian Clark 
| The Crosby Mine Pits offer in central Minnesota offer
magnificent paddling. Photo by Vivian Clark. |
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Balance comes easy to some people. My sister has been telling me for quite some time that my personal chi (pronounced "chee") is out of whack that I don't have my mind, body and spirit in alignment. Personally, I think I just need a vacation.Living on a lake in central Minnesota as I
do, one would think my life is a vacation. To some extent it is. I can't imagine living anywhere but by the water. And it is no surprise that I am drawn to water sports. Tim, a friend of mine from Chicago, was heading up to the Boundary Waters for an extended weekend of canoeing and kayaking. He took a slight detour to the Brainerd Lakes area to visit me. With his kayak along, it made sense for us to paddle some of the area lakes.
My dust-covered canoe sits upside down at the edge of the woods in my front yard. Sadly, this canoe has not been used in years. I longed to learn to kayak but did not have one. So how was I to join, let alone keep up, with Tim? Well, we found Jenny Smith's Cycle Path and Paddle in Crosby to be our answer. This one-stop shop offers rentals, transportation and guide service to the nearby Cuyuna Country State Recreational Area (CCSRA). The CCSRA boasts 5,000 acres of recreational opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts on land and water. A trail system for hiking and biking under construction will link many existing state trails. The 21 lakes within the area have an energy all their own and are the lure to one of the best kept secrets of Minnesota. This hidden treasure is about to be opened. The pit lakes
The landscape of gentle rolling hills and flat land was dramatically and permanently altered by the mining of iron ore beginning in 1903. Deep pits were dug and the waste rock and ore piled 200 feet or more. The last mine closed in 1968, but the last shipment of stockpiled iron ore shipped from the area on October 10, 1984. Father Time and Mother Nature have breathed new life into this industrial locale. Water filled the pits and
created lakes, some 500 feet deep. The overburden gave birth to lush forests of paper birch, aspen, basswood, red oak, ironwood and pine. The resulting vistas are breathtaking and create the illusion of being in a previously untouched natural environment.
Jenny Smith said the area is constantly being reborn. The lakes are new and therefore clean and clear. "It is just heavenly back here," she said.
Smith trailered the rental kayaks for me and some other friends who had joined us at a public landing water access in Pennington Lake. On this postcard-perfect summer afternoon, Warren Turnbloom of Riverton served as our guide to the celestial beauty of the pit lakes. Turnbloom is a retired local history buff with a love of the these waters. Smith and her husband, Brad, couldn't resist tagging along.
Sitting so close to the surface of the water, as a kayaker does, gave me the sense of being a part of it and not merely a detached observer. Time slowed down to a drift. Although I was less than an hour from home, I felt far, far away. Harmony returned to my soul with every stroke and glide.
Pairs of loons greeted us on every lake, and eagles soared above the towering pines lining the shoreline. We spotted a deer sipping the same clear cool water that bore us along.
Peering though her camera lens, this shutterbug nearly lined up the deer, Tim in his kayak and a loon all in the same shot. But just before I had the perfect alignment, the loon dove. In awe I watched the magnificent bird swim past my boat some 30 feet underwater. Although I missed hitting the shutter of my camera, I shuddered at the experience.
The water clarity is so good you can see to a depth of 40 feet in most of the pit lakes, according to
Turnbloom. This produced an eerie feeling as we paddled over trees resting eternally and peacefully on the lake bottom.
"We encourage people to take their time and soak it all in," Smith said. "There is so much to see here, you can come back every day and see something different."
Trout is stocked annually in 15 of the pit lakes. I'm told there are also trophy-sized northern pike that feast
on the trout. The pit lakes and six natural lakes also give up their large-mouth bass and crappies to area anglers.
Trail construction under way
The 25 miles of undeveloped shoreline can be explored by land or water. For extended visits, campgrounds are available year-round. However, there is no running water or restroom facilities from mid-September to May. Park officials suggest calling ahead for information and instructions.
Off the lakes and on the trails, the long-term vision for the CCSRA is to have multipurpose paved and unpaved trails lead west to the Paul Bunyan State Trail and east to the Aitkin County trails. Many unpaved trails are currently open to mountain bikers and hikers. Future paved trails will provide easy access for walkers, bicyclists, in-line skaters and cross-country skiers.
Construction has begun and the trails have been roughed in. Paving of the first segment is scheduled to be
complete this fall. Segments of the future trails will follow the Mississippi corridor and will be a part of the 10-state Mississippi River Trail.
The area was formed at the edge of repeating glacial advances leaving glacial drift ranges from 100 to 200 feet. These hills contain rough gravel and boulders amidst bogs, smaller lakes and ponds.
Due to the extreme geological background of this area, rock hounds are lured off the trail to explore and
make interesting finds of bighamite (similar to African tiger eye), goethite (hydrated form of iron oxide) and pyrite (fool's gold). These are just a few of the many rocks and minerals to be found for the trained eye. For me, they are simply pretty rocks. I found several heart-shaped stones to add to my collection.
You can go in search of serenity, but ultimately serenity has to come to you. Finding peace and tranquility on
the water brought me into balance. The paddling connected mind and body. The harmony of humanity and nature surrounded and engulfed me.
My sister would be proud. My chi was back in alignment.
For park, trail, lake, camping and all other information, call the Cuyuna State Recreation Area office at 218/546-5926.
Vivian Clark is a freelance writer in central Minnesota.
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