Paddling with Mike Svob
Discovering the magical Kinni
I was pleased when I spotted a tandem canoe atop a car in the McDonald's parking lot at the north edge of River Falls, Wisconsin. I had just driven without a boat from Eau Claire, Wisconsin, intending to find out what I could about the Kinnickinnic River. Somehow my many paddling forays had never included this little gem near the state's western border. I had heard good things about it in recent years, so on that May morning I
thought I would at least scout the River Falls vicinity and see what I could learn.Introducing myself to the outdoor-garbed canoe owners – a couple from Stillwater – I quickly felt the tension between them. The woman was reluctant to go paddling on such an inclement day. I couldn't really blame her for not wanting to paddle on that chilly, rainy morning. The husband, however, was elated when I
diplomatically indicated my willingness (eagerness is more like it) to make a quick tandem run with him. And his wife seemed relieved at the prospect of entertaining herself for a couple of hours in River Falls instead of shivering in the couple's Old Town. The husband didn't want to press his luck, so we paddled the eight miles from River Falls to County Trunk
G in just over two hours. That was more than enough for me to fall in love with the Kinnickinnic. I'm sure if I lived in the area I'd be a habitual "Kinni-rat." What more could one want than clear water, brisk current, a true wilderness setting, spectacular rock formations, beautiful stands of white pine, countless riffles and Class I rapids, and blessed solitude? It is indeed a magical river.
When we met up again with my new paddling partner's wife, she said that she'd had a great time exploring River Falls, so the morning turned out well for all three of us. I, too, was impressed by the city, a smallish college town (approximately 13,000 people) that has a progressive feel to it and a very inviting Main Street. Another thing the city has going for it is its proximity to the rich cultural opportunities in both Eau Claire (which I once considered moving to) and the Twin Cities.
Among other things, River Falls is fortunate to have – on Main Street, alongside the river – a charming establishment called Kinni Creek Lodge and Outfitters. The rustic-style lodge has several comfortable rooms that are typically occupied by silent sports enthusiasts: trout fishermen, canoeists, kayakers and bicyclists. In addition to an assortment of guided adventure trips, the lodge offers canoe and kayak rental on
the Kinnickinnic – principally on the fantastic segment downstream from River Falls, but on the upper portion as well. I was so taken by the Kinnickinnic that I quickly decided to include it in next spring's new edition of Paddling Northern Wisconsin, along with a couple of other streams that I recently paddled for the first time. It occurred to me to bounce off Silent Sports readers the rough draft of my Kinni trip description. I'd love
to hear your comments about the river if you've paddled it.
River Falls to County Trunk F (8 miles)
Almost within the shadow of Eau Claire/Chippewa Falls and the populous Minneapolis/St. Paul metro areas, there exists a marvelously unspoiled stretch of wild river. Its clear water, aerated by innumerable riffles and small rapids, and protected from shoreline development, makes it one of the premium trout
streams in the Midwest, and an increasingly popular destination for canoeists and kayakers. In its final 10 miles, the Kinnickinnic River flows through a gorgeous, narrow valley, known locally as the "lower canyon," where there is scarcely a sign of human activity.
Originating in St. Croix County a few miles north of Interstate 94, the Kinnickinnic twists and turns toward the southwest, with many public access points where fishermen can pursue the river's plentiful brook and
brown trout. In River Falls, two hydroelectric dams block its path. From there, the Kinni begins a densely wooded, habitation-free stretch of eight miles in a 200-foot-deep valley. This, of course, is the best canoe-and-kayak venue.
Finally, the river joins the St. Croix between Hudson and Prescott, forming a huge sandy delta at the mouth. Altogether, this splendid little river is only 22 miles long.
Because of the high incidence of minor rapids, rocks to dodge and occasional limbs to avoid, the section described here is best suited for paddlers who have advanced beginner or intermediate experience and skills.
Incidentally, the name of the river is derived from an Ojibwa (Chippewa) word for "that which is mixed," referring to the custom of mixing willow or dogwood bark with native tobacco in order to make it taste and smell better.
Public camping in the area is available in River Falls at Hoffman Park (715/425-0924), and 10 miles to the northwest at Willow River State Park (715/386-5931).
Water levels are fairly constant throughout the paddling season, with a normal flow of approximately 90-120 cubic feet per second. There is a gauge just upstream from the take-out bridge. Check gauge No. 05342000 on the USGS web site.
The shuttle route is via Park Street, Main Street (State Highway 29), County Trunk FF and County Trunk F. Canoe and kayak rentals and shuttle service are available in River Falls at Kinni Creek Lodge and Outfitters, which is located on the river (715/425-REST or www.kinnicreek.com).
Put in downstream-left from the lower Powell Falls dam on the south side of River Falls. Drive to the end of
Park Street where a trail leads from the Glen Park tennis courts down to the riverbank. Launch your boat as far away from the dam as you can; a canoeist drowned in the turbulence below the dam some years ago.
Right away, you're likely to see trout fishermen wading in the river. Low-level riffles and rapids begin immediately as the river bends to the right – the first of many.
Limestone outcroppings at the put-in are a preview of the rocky cliffs that you'll pass throughout the trip. Some of these formations are stunningly beautiful, including occasional "weeping cliffs" where water seeps nourish lush vegetation.
No roads cross the river until the end. Only one powerline passes overhead. Unlike the Upper Kinni (between I-94 and River Falls, where roads are never far away), silence reigns here.
There are numerous stands of white pine along the scenic bluffs and cliffs. Because of the remoteness and the peaceful environs, wildlife sightings are not uncommon, including deer, eagles, herons, wild turkey and a profusion of other birds.
The current is brisk and several tributaries augment the volume of the river – especially the Rocky Branch. Something is always drawing your attention as you make your way down the river on this typically
three-hour trip: scenic bluffs and cliffs, flora and fauna, Class I rapids, and streambed boulders.
The trip ends at the County F bridge. Take out upstream right and carry your boat under the bridge to the downstream-right Kinnickinnic State Park parking area, where you'll pay a day-use fee. The park entrance is located at the top of the hill north of the bridge. It's a beautiful place with hiking trails that provide breathtaking views of the Kinnickinnic gorge and the river delta.
For a map of public access points on the Kinnickinnic (principally upstream from River Falls and on the South Fork), see www.kinniriver.org – the website of the Kinnickinnic River Land Trust, an organization whose mission is "to protect the rare and beautiful Kinnickinnic and its watershed forever."
Mike Svob is a native Illinoisan and longtime northwoods devotee. He has canoed and kayaked for more
than 30 years in 18 states and several foreign countries but regards Wisconsin as paddling paradise and home. He now spends a majority of the year in Tucson, Arizona. He is the author of Paddling Illinois, Paddling Northern Wisconsin and Paddling Southern Wisconsin, all published by Trails Books. He can be reached at mikesvob@yahoo.com
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