Paddling
"Driftless" in Wisconsin
Fortunately for modern-day residents, tourists and paddlers in southwestern Wisconsin (and small adjacent areas of Minnesota, Iowa and Illinois), the glaciers that swept across North America spared a 15,000-square-mile swath of
rugged land that today is one of the most scenic parts of the Midwest. Lacking the massive deposits of rock, gravel and other materials deposited by the glaciers (known as "drift"), the Driftless Area in Wisconsin is bounded roughly by the Mississippi on the west, a line from Eau Claire to Stevens Point on the north, a line from Stevens Point through Baraboo on the East, and the Illinois state line on the south. A glance at a topographical map (or through the pages of
the ever-useful "DeLorme Gazetteer") reveals a high-relief pattern of ridges, circuitous roads and winding valleys.
For sightseeing motorists and nonmotorized recreationists alike, the region is indeed a beautiful place. But, as always, canoeists and kayakers have the finest vantage point to appreciate the grandeur of the Driftless Area. The bankside cliffs, towering bluffs, twisting streambed, frequent riffles, charming old bridges and
other characteristics of the region can best be experienced from a boat.
Of the many rivers that flow through the region, some are well known and heavily canoed especially the lower portions of the Wisconsin and Black, and all of the Kickapoo. Others are considerably less known, however, and lightly paddled the La Crosse, Trempealeau and Baraboo rivers, for instance, are lovely
little streams that have charms of their own. In future articles, we'll take a detailed look at many of these streams and make recommendations about the most canoeable sections.
For today, we're going to examine three gorgeous little rivers in the far southwestern corner of Wisconsin the Grant, Platte and Galena all within a few miles of each other in the Platteville, Wis., Dubuque, Iowa,
and Galena, Ill. area. If the weather is right, the water levels are sufficient, and you're so inclined, you can easily paddle all three in a single long weekend. For the descriptions that follow, consult your handy "DeLorme" for road and bridge locations. The Grant None of the three is heavily paddled, but the Grant has become increasingly popular in recent years, thanks
in part to the availability of an excellent canoe-rental operation in the tiny community of Beetown (Grant River Canoe Rental 608/794-2342). One of the most delightful paddling rivers in the state, the Grant is only 25-40 feet wide most of the time, and provides a joyous experience of canopied foliage, striking rock formations, pleasant riffles and unbroken solitude. Under low to medium water conditions, the river is
appropriate for "advanced beginners." There are many sharp turns with tricky currents and eddies, together with trees and limbs that occasionally require maneuvering. Once you've paddled the Grant, you'll definitely want to return again and again.
The two recommended day-trips are similar, but the first has more rock outcroppings while the second is more riffly. Both have good accesses.
For the first section (nine miles), put in alongside Porter Hill Road at a river-right clearing 0.1 mile east of the Highway 81 bridge (west of Lancaster). To get to the put-in, turn south off Highway 35/81 just west of the bridge, then south on 81, and east on Porter Hill Road. Often narrow and tree-canopied, the river flows under four bridges but passes only a few houses. Long, exhilarating riffles are frequent. Wooded bluffs and
beautiful sandstone cliffs often rise along the shoreline, topped with pine trees. Near the end, the river is relatively deep as it arcs around toward the County U bridge (south of Beetown), where there's a good takeout on river-right directly beneath the bridge.
The second day-trip (7.5 miles) doesn't have as many of the stunning rock formations that characterize the previous stretch, but you'll find it to be equally enjoyable. In general, it's narrower, super-quiet and very
riffly. The average gradient is a brisk 8 feet per mile, compared with 4.4 feet on the previous section. Except for some pastureland and cornfields at the outset, the river feels quite remote here; you'll see only one bridge before the takeout, and few houses. For paddlers who wish to spend a weekend on the Grant, this section is a splendid way to spend a Sunday before heading home.
For Section Two, put in at County U (river-right beneath the bridge). After a long series of short, sharp bends, then a straightaway, the river passes some remarkable, gnarled rock formations. A couple of fords cross the river before the Camel Ridge Road bridge, where there's a lovely sand beach (25 yards downstream-right) that can be used as an alternative takeout if you want a shorter trip. Soon after the
bridge, look for the marvelous rock face on the left, covered with wet moss a striking example of a seep. The last mile of this trip is one of the prettiest parts of the Grant narrow, densely wooded, canopied and placid, with almost continuous riffles. Take out 50 yards upstream from the Chaffee Hollow Road bridge at a sand-and-gravel landing on the left. The Platte
Once you've paddled the Grant, you've had a good preview of the Platte. Paralleling the Grant a few miles to the east, the Platte follows a similarly crooked path, caroming off one bluff after another on its way to the Mississippi. It has few of the dramatic rock formations found along the Grant, but is otherwise comparable. Filled with riffles, it's small (averaging 35 feet in width), clear, peaceful and pleasant.
Along the banks, wooded bluffs, pastureland and cultivated fields are common, but houses are few. Wire stretched over the river must be squeezed under a couple of times. The put-in and takeout for the recommended stretch (12 miles) are adequate, but intermediate bridges provide mediocre-to-poor access. For a shorter trip, scout the in-between bridges to find one that strikes you as "do-able."
Put in from the grassy bank upstream-right at the Ellenboro Road bridge, just east of the small community of Ellenboro. This access is a few hundred yards downstream from the Highway 81 bridge, where you can also put in. Almost immediately, a tall bluff deflects the river sharply to the right a pattern that will persist throughout the trip. From the beginning, riffles are frequent, as a result of the section's average gradient of
7.5 feet per mile. Sheer cutbanks are often found in curves. In deep pools, especially in bends, the water has a beautiful, greenish cast, like an Ozark Mountain stream.
Altogether, the river passes under six bridges before the takeout; some are antique, rusting, metal-truss structures that recall another era. In the long, right bend toward the Red Dog Road bridge, the prettiest rock
formations of the trip are found. Long riffles, sharp turns and riverside bluffs persist all the way to the end of the trip, where the takeout is upstream-right at the Steinbach Bridge (the last bridge upstream from County O).
The seven-mile stretch from Steinbach Bridge to Highway 35 is much less riffly but attractive, often flowing alongside bluffs in sweeping curves. The upstream-right access at Highway 35 is an easy one. Another 1.5
miles leads through a wide, marshy area to the Banfield Bridge, where there's an excellent public boat ramp upstream-right, with plentiful parking. The Galena The Galena River still called the Fever on some maps is equally delightful. When water volume is
sufficient, it provides multitudes of pleasant riffles, often in combination with bluffs and rock formations. Flowing through the heart of the historic lead-mining district, the river has a remote feel with few dwellings. The trip recommended here is relatively short (only 5.5 miles) and ends within half a mile of the Illinois border. Averaging only 35 feet in width, the river is clear and flows over a rocky bottom. A highlight of the
trip is an abandoned railroad tunnel that twice appears along the shoreline.
Put in at the County W bridge west of New Diggings (downstream-left). After the river is diverted to the right by a wooded bluff, an old railroad right-of-way runs along the left side. Then, in a sharp left turn, the mouth of a tunnel looms on the right. Like the Platte, the river now bounces back and forth off tall, wooded
bluffs. The average gradient of 7.3 feet per mile creates good current and a steady succession of riffles and easy rock gardens. Not far from the end of the trip, directly across from the mouth of Coon Branch, the railroad tunnel appears again, carved through the rocky bluff.
Several hundred yards after the river flows under a modern farm bridge, the easy-to-miss takeout is on the river-right bank off Buncombe Road, just upstream from the mouth of a creek that crosses the road. After
Buncombe Road the river soon heads south into Illinois. The nine-mile stretch to Buckhill Road is quite pleasant; another 4.5 miles leads to the charming city of Galena (see Galena 1 in Paddling Illinois). Water Levels To make sure there's enough water for comfortable paddling, check the current USGS real-time gauge
readings for the Grant and Platte at http://wi.water.usgs.gov (gauge #05413500 for the Grant, #05414000 for the Platte). The minimum recommended levels are 100 cfs for the Grant, 70 for the Platte. For the Galena, check the gauge reading on the IWIN site: http://iwin.nws.noaa.gov/win/wi/hydro.html. The recommended minimum is 3.00 stage.
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