| The Cobban Bridge near the Old Abe State Trail. OLD ABE STATE TRAIL
Scenic and paved, trail meanders along the Chippewa River
By Greg Marr
Until I began researching the Old Abe Trail, I had no idea it was named after an eagle that served as a mascot in the Civil War. After visiting the trail, I would have been inclined to name it the Swarming Fly Trail,
because I had the misfortune to arrive simultaneous with the hatch of those pesky insects.
I might also be incline to call it the Sad Turtle Trail, because of the turtles that crawl up from the Chippewa River and lay their eggs in nests dug right next to the trail. What's sad about that is the various critters that dig up the turtle eggs and feast on them, leaving egg shells littering the side of the trail.
Instead of naming the trail for an old eagle, it could be called the Fearless Turkey Trail for the giant turkey that stood trailside and just watched as I rolled slowly by not once, but twice. It showed no inclination to seek shelter in the brush but just stood and watched me.
Naming the trail was not up to me, however, so Old Abe it is.
The Old Abe Trail is one of the newer additions to Wisconsin's vast network of rail trails. Opened in 1999, Old Abe runs from the Lake
Wissotta area, just north and east a few miles from Chippewa Falls, to Cornell and Burnett Island State Park. The trail roughly follows the Chippewa River and is, depending on which measure you use, 17 to just under 20 miles in length. The differences seem to come from where one actually starts (or finishes) on the south end. Beginning at Lake Wissota State Park and riding the suggested 2.5 road miles to intersect with the
trail is an official 17.2 miles. Ride from the park to the actual trailhead, near where the river meets Lake Wissota at the junction of Hwy. S & Hwy. O, and you get a couple extra miles. A large, paved shoulder keeps you out of any traffic on the way to the trailhead. Future plans call for the trail to run right into Chippewa Falls.
The Old Abe is somewhat unique among Wisconsin's trails in that it's paved with asphalt for its entire length, thus it's more welcoming for inline
skaters, roller skiers and strollers. With that in mind, I decided I would combine roller skiing and bicycling as I explored Old Abe.
Well, roller skiing would have been a good idea. For skiing, I parked at Jim Falls and had planned to first ski south for a couple of miles, then north to Cobban and back to Jim Falls, which I figured as a nice 14–mile run. South wasn't bad; north was a different story. About a mile up from
Jim Falls, the trail tucks in close to the river. It was here that I encountered the first of the flies. Another mile, and they were swarming and biting and I couldn't go fast enough to get away from them. I beat a hasty retreat back to the car and decided that would be enough of the roller skiing for the day.
Roller skiers should be aware that, while it is a paved trail, it isn't highway–smooth in places. In the few miles I skied, I found a some slight
washboard sections, and cracks filled with tar and stones. My V2 Aeros floated over any imperfections and most skiers/skaters should find the surface more than adequate.
Another slight but potentially more serious problem is the obvious damage from snowmobiles. The center of the trail is worn from snomo tread poking through thin snow, and unforgiving skis or skates might find this surface a bit rough. At this time, it isn't really a problem; a few more
years of continued wear, however, and some maintenance will be required.
Although the flies cut my planned ski in half, it is a great place to ski safely; I do plan to return some day.
So it would be an afternoon of bicycle exploration. I pulled out the bike and retraced my steps north, but at a speed that would have me out–pacing the flies. After a mile, the trail eases along the east bank of the Chippewa river. In the next two miles are some of the most
spectacular views of the placid river as there's little overgrowth trailside. The disturbed turtle nests are along this stretch, and where the fearless turkey eyed me with what looked like bemused curiosity. Numerous turtles were crossing the trail, enough that I was forced to watch out for them. Other than some songbirds and a few forest rodents – squirrels and chipmunks – I was surprised that I saw little wildlife all afternoon.
The river is fairly wide north of Jim Falls and undeveloped on the trail side. Across the river, along Highway 178, there are quite a few homes. The trail dips back into the forest, away from the river, until the approach to Cobban, where a small bridge leads to a cross of County K, the first road crossing since leaving Jim Falls. You have to take a break here to check out the Coban Bridge, an overhead truss bridge built in 1906. It's the oldest of its kind in the state.
The bridge is an adventure. Wood decked, it's wide enough for only one car at a time. Cars run across on two sets of thick wooden planks spaced wide enough for a set of tires. If you're feeling adventureous – and don't see any cars approaching from the other side – put your bike up on the planks and ride across to read the historic marker on the other side. After that little adventure, I headed back to Jim Falls and drove up to Cornell, at the north end of the trail.
Now about that eagle, Old Abe. Before leaving Jim Falls, I had to take a look at the statue of the famed bird. The 10–foot–high statue is at the bridge crossing the river, two blocks from the trail. According to a 1999 story in the Chippewa Herald, written by Rod Stetzer, Old Abe "was captured by Indians in northern Wisconsin and swapped for a bushel of corn. He was taken to Jim Falls and was eventually turned over to be used as a mascot of the Eau Claire company of the 8th Wisconsin
Infantry, that later gained fame as the Eagle Regiment. He saw action in 37 battles, scaring the enemy and inspiring his comrades."
"When he had seen his last battle, his home state gave him a permanent perch in the basement of the state Capitol. And when the nation he and the veterans helped to preserve celebrated it's centennial, he represented Wisconsin in a display that drew over 1 million visitors." Old Abe died in 1881.
Up in Cornell, you can't miss "the only known pulpwood stacker in the world," the tourism brochure announces, as the 175–foot–high bohemouth, that looks like a giant crane, dominates the skyline where Hwy. 64 crosses the river. Angled at 45 degrees, the stacker is 36 feet across at its base and 10 feet at the top. The stacker, in use from 1912 to 1971, did just what its name suggests: stack pulpwood logs. The logs would run up a convey then tip into massive piles below, where they
would be floated to a paper mill.
I picked up this information at the Cornell Visitors Center, opened in 1993, below the stacker in Mill Yard Park. The park has playground equipment, restrooms, running water, a pavilion and picnic tables. The 10 acre site was the wood yard for the stacker and, over the years, has seen many improvements, include grading, landscaping, two parking lots, a picnic shelter and lights to illuminate the stacker.
Leaving the stacker behind, I rode a mile north to Brunet Island State Park, a real jewel in the state's park system. I strongly suggest you do this. It's only a mile to the park and another mile or so into the campground, but extremely scenic – and here is the only gradient (however slight) you'll get in the entire day.
The trail officially ends (or begins, depending on your perspective) in the parking lot at the park's headquarters. Keep riding and you'll cross a
bridge to Brunet Island itself. It's a small park, just over 1,00 acres, with 69 campsites, a playground, swimming beach and trails. It's quiet and secluded. Haul a canoe to the park and visit some of the smaller islands that are included in the state's property.
Back in Cornell (you'll have about four miles on your bike computer if you've ridden into the park), the trail rides high along the river on its way south. Thick growth prevents any real good looks at the river but you
catch glimpses. A bridge passes over a bubbling stream and in a couple of places, you can hear running water but not see it.
After a couple of miles, the trail leaves the river and moves inland through forest on the way to Cobban, crossing two roads. The trip to Cobban and back to Cornell is about 11 miles, 15 with the trip into the park.
With the 10 miles from Jim Falls to Cobban, this back and forth riding gave me a total of 25 for the afternoon. Add the six to eight miles of
roller skiing, and I was having a pretty good day. All that remained was about five miles on the trail's south end. It was pushing 5 p.m., however, and I had a three hour drive to get home – too late for any more riding, I figured.
I did drive down to look at the southern portion – easy to do since, unlike it's northern half, there's very little trailside growth. The trail is open and follows along the path of highline electric wires. It does touch
along the river a couple of miles south of Jim Falls, where it encounters a wooded section. Don't be surprised if you see a horse on the southern half of the trail, as horseback riding is allowed to Jim Falls.
With Brunet Park anchoring the north end, Lake Wissota State Park holds down the south end. With over 80 camp sites, 17 miles of hiking trails, 11 miles of mountain bike trails and a swimming beach on the 6,300–acre lake, the park is a wonderful place to visit when doing the
Old Abe Trail. Rental canoes are also available.
One final caveat: unless you're a country music fan, I suggest you avoid the area on the opening day of the Cadott Country Music Fest, a four–day event attended by thousands of diehard fans. Nothing against country music, by the way; it's just that the small towns and backroads were busy with RVs and hee hawing, cowboy hat wearin' country fans. I made the mistake of leaving by a route that looked good on the map:
County S east to Hwy. 27. What I didn't know was that this route led right into the festival. I thought I'd accidently driven my van into an RV parade, when I looked ahead and saw what appeared to be a massive camper/RV convention spreading out into the fields. It was the "campgrounds" for the festival. I pulled into a driveway and beat a hasty retreat.
Every business I frequented, I was asked the same question: "You here
for the country fest?" After simply saying, "No, I'm here to ride the trail" a few times, I mentioned to a friendly convenience store clerk that I didn't really like country music all that much.
"So you go to rock festivals then?"
"No," I said, cracking wise, "I prefer a good chamber music fest. I just go all twitchy when I hear an extended cello solo," and I headed for home, leaving a wonderful trail – and a confused clerk – behind.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
A trail pass (seasonal $10, daily $3) is required for all people age 16 or older for all activities except hiking. Passes are available on the trail from the Friends of the Old Abe Trail, Chippewa County Forest and Parks, Chippewa Area Visitors Center. The Cornell Visitors Center or from
local merchants. I bought mine in the convenience store next to the trail parking lot in Jim Falls.
Parking is available at the junction of Hwy. S and Hwy. O (97th Ave.), Jim Falls–Anson Town Hall, and Cornell Mill Yard Park.
Toilets are at Lake Wissota State Park, the Anson Town Park (one block north of the trail crossing of Hwy S), Mill Yard Park (Cornell) and Brunet Island State Park.
General area information, as well as a map of the trail, can be obtain
from the Chippewa Area Chamber of Commerce, 10 South Bridge Street, Chippewa Falls, WI 54729; 715/723–0331; toll free 888/723–0024; info@chippewachamber.org; www.chippewachamber.org. The chamber and visitor's center in Cornell have available a free visitor's guide and numerous pamphlets highlighting area attractions, lodging, restaurants and special points of interest. Chippewa Falls is a bustling little city with a lot to offer, including bike shops, if you are need of some repairs or equipment.
For information on the state parks:
Brunet Island State Park,
Rt. 2, Box 158, Cornell, WI 54732; 715/239–6888.
Lake Wissota State Park, 18127 County Highway O, Chippewa Falls, WI 54729; 715/382–4574.
| |
