HIGH CLIFF STATE PARK A timeless journey to four seasons of silent sports fun By Robert J. Zimmer
The frosty breath of another October morning swept across the land with an awakening bite. I turn to face the wind. A sea of rippling grasses danced in the autumn breeze, rising softly up the sloping uplands here at High Cliff State Park. Riding the gentle thermals, a trio of giant turkey vultures circled the face of the
mammoth bluffs, moving south with the coming season. Summer's crowds have faded and there is no better time of year to enjoy the majesty of High Cliff.
Just a short drive from the Fox Cities, Green Bay, Oshkosh and the Lakeshore, High Cliff State Park covers 1,145 acres along the northeast
shore of Lake Winnebago. The park rests on towering limestone bluffs overlooking the lake and surrounding countryside. The bluffs here rise 225 feet above Lake Winnebago to provide spectacular overlooks, and are part of the great Niagara Escarpment. This towering ledge of exposed limestone rock curves a full 900 miles to the north and east, the same ridge that forms the cliffs at Niagara Falls, the spectacular bluffs that make
up the Door County peninsula, as well as much of the dramatic landscape in the Kettle Morraine.
The park is brimming with history, an ancient geological wonder, as well as a living fossil with remnants of a Woodland Indian culture still preserved among the bluffs. What a better time of year to explore and enjoy it all than colorful autumn!
High Cliff boasts over 20 miles of roads and trails perfect for various
levels of cycling fun and adventure. Families will enjoy the peaceful, paved roads at the bottom of the cliff, along the wooded shoreline, park marina, fabulous golf course and swimming beach. Those seeking a little more excitement will find the steep incline to the top a challenge in itself, along with the rolling hills and slopes on the cliff top. Mountain bikers will love the rough, rugged ride several unpaved trails provide all
across the uplands and deep woodlands along the upper face of the cliff.
A great place for a rugged workout is the combination horse/bike/hiking/ski trail that travels the full length of the park on top of the cliff. From the north entrance, follow the main road south up the cliff, then take a right to the campground road. Here, just a short way in, you will find a gravel parking area for horse trailers and cars, a perfect spot to start riding.
The trail is hard-packed clay , mowed grasses and exposed rock. Following the trail north is a steady uphill climb, looping through deep woodlands then back down through the colorful meadows and sloping hillside. A light morning frost melts away quickly, glistening in the warming sun, and soon the crickets and grasshoppers are churring again. A field full of goldenrod sprawls along the sides of the trail, and the scarlet
flame of sumac blazes at the forest edge. We follow the steadily rising trail up the gentle slope, around several curves and reach the park's upper shelter, a great place for a rest, a drink and for breathtaking views of the lake and countryside below.
A climb up the 40-foot observation tower perched at the cliff edge provides a beautiful panoramic view of Lake Winnebago and the unique geology of the cliff itself. Huge stands of shagbark hickory near the upper
shelters are a popular draw for fall visitors who gather ripe hickory nuts for winter drying.
>From here, the bike trail loops through the colorful autumn meadow into the woodlands and back down to the parking area. Huge patches of colorful asters – pink, purple and white – brighten the meadow along with goldenrod and clovers. Clouds of sulphur butterflies dance among the season's last blooming wildflowers,
and migrating monarchs drift lazily to the south. The golden glow of aspen and birch brightens the forest edge, and a steady rain of glistening yellow leaves cascades from the treetops in the stiffening breeze. Riding through this gentle shower of leaves is magical ... we go back and do it again.
The ride through the forest is a bit more rough, but the scenery is spectacular. Busy squirrels and chipmunks
bound back and forth across the trail ,their mouths stuffed will acorns and hickory nuts. Colorful blue jays scold from the golden treetops, and brilliant red cardinals flit among the lower shrubs. The sweet, tangy scent of fresh fallen leaves fills the air with a pleasant wild aroma, one that soothes and relaxes and brings a welcome easiness to these ever-changing days of autumn.
South of the parking area, the trail follows a much different landscape. The trail is smooth and grassy with a narrow sand/clay lane. Like a gentle rollercoaster, the trail climbs and falls, twists and turns through a rippling sea of smooth grasses. The workout is challenging, and the ride is a rewarding one. Following the trail south we are greeting by a large flock of eastern bluebirds, swarming among the fringing dogwoods and
trailing us down the path with a flash of bright-blue wingbeats. The trail curves toward the lake, and a small side trail leads into the park campground and some very rough terrain through an old quarry and right along the very edge of the cliff.
Hiking, cross country skiing and snowshoeing are all popular late fall/early winter activities to enjoy at High Cliff. Exploring the cliff face and caverns on foot is an exhilarating experience, and a number of trails climb
and snake through the many stone crags, outcroppings and ridges.
Below the cliff, trails and roadways along the wooded lakeshore are great fun to explore. Here you will find huge stone structures, leftovers from a lime kiln industry that thrived here from 1895 until 1956. In its heyday, the lime industry, at what is now High Cliff State Park, supported a small town consisting of 16 workers' houses, a company store and tavern. The company store still stands today, serving as a museum
for the mine and other local history.
At several places throughout the park are still seen the abandoned pits of the old quarries. Vertical holes drilled into the limestone were filled with dynamite and blasting took place daily. In early days, the quarry workers would shout warnings to farmers who were working nearby to give the farmers time to steady their horses and cattle.
Be aware that hiking trails vary greatly in difficulty. Not all trails are surfaced. Steep climbs or descents make up a large part of the trail system – use caution when on steep bluffs or near cliffs. Most of the cliffs are not protected by barricades or barriers of any kind, and the trails can become slippery when wet or leaf covered.
WINTER AT HIGH CLIFF The trees stand bare and leafless, skeletons of black in stark contrast with the season's first big snow. Below, the mighty cliff, the waters of Lake Winnebago, churn in a frothy, angry sea of caramel-colored surf. Limbs on the trees overhead rattle and snap in the stiff northwest wind.
Snowshoeing is permitted in all areas of High Cliff State Park, and the freedom to roam the woodlands and
bluffs is irresistible. Many miles of groomed cross country ski trails are also maintained during the winter months.
Exploring the High Cliff Indian mounds is a great way to spend a day snowshoeing. A giant, bronzed statue of Winnebago Indian, Chief Red Bird, stands upon a granite boulder at the main trail entrance, looking majestically to the west across his beloved "Wiskooserah" – water by the flowering banks. Chief Red Bird
died a self-imposed death by starvation in 1828, say historians, and felt his surrender was the only way to stop the needless slaughter of native peoples at the time.
A dozen effigy mounds lie deeper in the forest, remnants of a much more primitive Woodland Indian culture dating back between 1000 AD and 1500 AD.
Walking south along the cliff edge provides exceptional views of the lake below, as the trees are now bare
of leaves. The air is crisp and clear, and visibility in winter is stunning. For safety, snowshoers should not venture too close to the edge of the bluff, as heavy drifts and ice can hide wide cracks and openings in the rock.
As we approach the mounds, their sheer size is overwhelming. In the winter forest, the shapes and placement of the largest mounds are unmistakable. The largest panther mound runs east to west between
two smaller conical-shaped mounds and reaches an incredible 285 feet in length.
The effigy mounds found here are of two major types – animal and geometric shaped. Four panther mounds have been found in the park, as well as the "Twin Buffalos" mounds and many geometric shapes. The Indians used shapes of animals that inhabited these forests at that time. These are, in fact, burial mounds,
though the bodies were not buried as such. They were laid upon the ground and the soil shaped and piled on top of them.
The reddening sun sinks lower in the southwest horizon, casting a pinkish glow over the fresh-fallen snow. The trail back leads through another old quarry pit where visitors can practice their rock-climbing skills and explore caves and crevices among the limestone ridges.
The winter forest is quiet and still. Only the crows, jays and chickadees speak on this darkening afternoon, along with the crackling branches overhead and the distant thunder of the surf crashing below. We pass the statue of Chief Red Bird on the way back to the parking area and share for a moment his sweeping view of mighty Winnebago. The sun reaches the horizon and its bright orange-red face begins to sink into darkness.
For a moment, the history and beauty of this magnificent park take second stage to the colorful, but cold, winter sunset. Then the bronzed giant glows brilliant in the setting sun before darkness falls, a powerful flash of beautiful light, then shadows. Another day ... another night.
So much to see and explore. So many tales to tell. All are yours to seek out and enjoy at High Cliff State Park. FOR MORE INFORMATION Contact High Cliff State Park, N7630 State Park Rd., Sherwood, WI 54169 920/989-1106. |