Ferry-to-ferry in five days
Loop takes cyclist on rail trails from
Milwaukee to Ludington and back
By Allan Stenmark
When the Milwaukee Lake Express Ferry was first proposed, I imagined taking it to complete a great big loop by bicycle. I'd pedal from Milwaukee to Muskegon, Michigan, by way of the new Lake Express ferry; north to Ludington, where the S.S. Badger would ferry me across Lake Michigan to Manitowoc, Wisconsin; then bike south back to
Milwaukee using rails-to-trails routes, bike paths and county roads.
That dream became reality this past September.
After planning a route, establishing camping sites in state and county parks, and organizing my gear in my bike bag and buggy, I arrived at the Lake Express parking lot an hour before departure. I had reserved a ticket a week before and checked in.
Departure was at 6:30 a.m. sharp. We cruised out of the Milwaukee
harbor quickly reaching 40 mph. The sunrise ahead was beautiful and Milwaukee's skyline astern was hazy. The water jets at the rear of the ferry looked like two white tails. The sea was smooth and the ship fast. The wind whipped through my hair. In no time Wisconsin was out of sight and the awesome unlimited expanse of Lake Michigan became apparent.
Comfortable chairs and large tables in the snack bar made it easy to eat, read the morning paper and study the planned Michigan bike route
ahead.
Just two and a half hours later and we were docking. As the ferry entered the Muskegon harbor, we passed Muskegon State Park on the port side, many sport fishing boats on Muskegon Lake, and to our starboard was the old elegant Milwaukee Clipper ferry still afloat but mothballed. A sign on it said that tours were Thursday through Sunday.
It being Monday, I got in the saddle on Lakeshore Drive east into Muskegon, where I picked up the paved bike trail around the harbor.
After going through wildlife areas on the bikeway's wide, wooden boardwalk bridges, I ended up at Ruddman Road, which I took west to Buys Road north. I pedaled north and west on the less traveled flit and tree lined forested side roads up to the town of Whitehall.
I got lunch at Pekadill's Sandwich Shop on the south side of town. Just one block west I picked up the paved Hart-Montague Bicycle Trail. With a nice breeze from the south, I headed north through Oceana
County, passing blueberry farms and asparagus fields. A historic trail marker indicated Oceana County has the greatest acreage of asparagus beds in the United States.
On the trail just before the town of Shelby is The Farm Dairy Store, a strategic location for a root beer float break. I headed west when I got to the town of Mears, and down to Silver Lake State Park for my first night camp. A swim in the all-sand Silver Lake refreshed my legs.
The next day's sunrise lit up the over sand dunes across Silver Lake. I rode to the Little Point Sable Lighthouse on Lake Michigan and learned about the history of these beacons of safety on the Great Lakes.
After returning to camp and packing up my gear, I headed north on Ridge Road also called County B-15. Reaching the city of Pentwater which has a variety of tourist shops and eateries. I chose the Cottage Garden Restaurant for a lunch of asparagus quiche, Havarti dill cheese
soup and a blueberry smoothie.
I stopped at Charles Mears State Park on the north side of town to check on future camping and to climb "Old Baldy" sand dune for a view of Pentwater south and Lake Michigan west.
Heading north on Business 31, I turned left onto Lakeshore Drive going around Bass Lake. From here it was a steady incline towards the immense Ludington hydroelectric pumped storage reservoir. On the north side of the reservoir was Mason County Campground and
Recreation Area where I camped that evening. I hiked to a nearby model airplane field where a couple of hobbyists were waiting for the southerly wind to die down. They told me about the farms and orchards that were lost to the building of that huge reservoir. I mentioned that I was going to Ludington in the morning and one of the model airmen advised me to take the first road west of the campground for a scenic ride to Ludington and beyond.
The next morning, I was not disappointed as I coasted down into a pretty valley. I arrived in Ludington at 8 a.m. and purchased a ticket for the S.S. Badger Ferry for the return to Wisconsin. An hour later the four-hour crossing of Lake Michigan to Manitowoc began. The wind blew 10-foot waves parallel to the ferry causing it to roll side to side all the way. To avoid seasickness, I drank several of cups of coffee.
Other passengers ate and lounged on the sundeck or went to the TV or
movie rooms. They could also visit the museum and game rooms or browse and purchase mementos at the souvenir store. I caught up on the news and studied my planned route south.
On land again in Manitowoc, I pedaled off down Lakeshore Drive and onto 9th Street south. At noon I passed Lincoln High School, located on a bluff overlooking Lake Michigan, just as the school band was practicing. Either my timing was perfect or the band meant to throw me a welcome home reception.
Continuing south, I merged onto County Road LS and lunched at Silver Creek Park just south of Manitowoc. I fought against a stiff southerly breeze all day, stopping at City Park in the small village of Cleveland, Wisconsin, for a drink. Continuing south against that stiff breeze, dark clouds gathered. I put on my rain suit near the famous Whistling Straits golf course, where the 2004 PGA tournament was held. As I reached the northern end of Sheboygan, a downpour struck. Just in time, I took
refuge under a gasoline station canopy.
After the cloudburst passed, I took County Road LS into Sheboygan to Calumet Road where the alluring smell of charcoal grilled hamburgers and brats at Schulz's Restaurant made for well-timed dinner stop. After supper, I crossed the Sheboygan to 12th Street south. This took me to the entrance of Kohler-Andrae State Park, where I camped for the night. I fell asleep to the sound of the crashing waves of Lake Michigan.
A new day with no south wind, finally. I took County Road KK from Kohler-Andrae State Park west and south to the village of Oostburg, where I found an excellent bakery. Then on to the historic Dutch village of Cedar Grove, with its windmill on the main street. I continued south and and west a bit to pick up Ozaukee's Interurban paved bike trail. Heading five miles south on the trail through the village of Belgium, I took County Road A west to Fredonia and its lovely Waubedonia Park
just on the west side of town on the Milwaukee River. I set up camp and rode back into town for a chicken-wrap dinner at the historic Fredonia Inn.
Packing up after a cup of campsite cappuccino, I cruised south to Cedarburg. I had brunch at "The Coffee Cup" restaurant in town, and again picked up the Ozaukee Trail going south to Mequon Road. From there I headed southeast to the Oak Leaf Trail along the Milwaukee River. This led me back to the Lake Express Ferry parking lot in
Milwaukee, from where I I departed five days earlier. I was just in time to make the ferry leaving for Muskegon at 3:30 p.m. and to take me home.
The trip included about 200 miles of easy biking, including 40 miles of rails-to-trails. I'm planning another loop trip with my wife on a tandem, except we will stay at bed-and-breakfasts along the way, do more sightseeing and dig into the history of the country, towns and places we visit. |
