Don't put your bike away for the winter!
by Byron Kuster In late fall, most cyclists hang their bikes up for the year. The reasons are obvious: The roads will soon be treacherously icy, the blackness of night has consumed a greater portion of the
day, and the temperatures are dropping faster than the resale value of an old computer.
Until recently, cycling after Thanksgiving simply was not an option. But with the latest advances in tires, lights and clothing, there's no reason why a person can't cycle year-round.
With gas prices at record levels, it makes more sense than ever to consider winter cycling. Besides saving money, it's a great way to stay in shape when there isn't enough snow for skiing or snowshoeing.
And the
winter scenery has a beauty that can't be found at any other time of year. It also provides excitement and the chance to make a statement that you're not the type of person who lives within the limits that hold most people back.
Winter cycling can be dangerous, however. One must be aware of the inherent risks and deal with them wisely. What follows are some tips to make winter cycling safer and more enjoyable.
Ride a 'disposable' bike
The salt and sand are hard on everything,
especially exotic metals like magnesium which is commonly found on bike forks. The chain, cassette, brake shoes and derailleurs will wear at a rate much faster than any other time of year. Much of your bike will be worn out after a couple of winters. It doesn't make sense to wear out an expensive bike when a cheap one will do.
Keep in mind that as the temperature drops, riding becomes more difficult. The bearing grease becomes stiff and every road and trail feels like a climb.
Traction
Three words: Nokian studded tires! The Finnish-made Nokian Extreme 296 (soon to be replaced by the Extreme 300) is the best winter cycling tire around. It's expensive (MSRP $100 each) but worth every cent. Each has 296 carbide studs per tire that really bite into ice. You can literally ride across glare ice with them.
There are other less expensive studded tires on the market, but they typically have steel studs instead of carbide. Steel is not nearly as hard and the corners of the
steel studs round over in time, reducing their bite considerably. Because the carbide studs are so hard, they maintain their edge. Expect to get three to five years out of one set of carbide studded tires depending on how many miles you ride.
If you want to save money, have two set of wheels: one with studded tires and one with regular tires. Be sure to mount studded tires on both the front and rear wheels. Don't try to save money by riding with just a studded tire on the rear wheel. You
need a good grip at both ends of the bike. Studded tires are essential to making winter riding safe.
Be aware that studded tires ought to be broken in by riding on pavement for about 50 miles before being used on ice.
If there is a down side to riding on studded tires, it is that they are not very efficient. You will get a workout with them. Isn't that one of the reasons for biking?
Visibility (being seen)
Because there's 16 hours of darkness per day in the dead of winter,
it is essential to keep yourself visible if you ride on roads. Motorists are not expecting to see a cyclist so you should ride with more than one red rear blinker on your bike. It adds extra visibility and provides safety if there is a malfunction with one of the blinkers or the battery goes dead.
Carry extra batteries with you. Place reflective tape on many parts of your bike (saddle stays, crank arms, fork legs, handlebars, etc.) so that you can be seen from all directions. Use red tape
on the rear-facing bike parts and white or amber on the forward facing parts.
Reflective clothing also adds to your visibility which is especially important when you are not on the bike.
Mount a blinking white light to the front of your bike. The blinking feature gets noticed more quickly by motorists and helps distinguish a bike from a snowmobile.
Visibility (seeing the road)
Use a good headlamp of at least 10 watts connected to a rechargeable battery. These are available
for as little as $100 and last a long time.
You need good visibility to see the berms left behind by the people who plow their driveways onto the shoulder of the road. It's also hard to see the dark ice chunks that fall off cars onto the shoulder of the road when the shoulders are dark and free of snow.
Warmth
Most people who ski or snowshoe know how to keep warm. The general rules apply the same to cycling.
On very cold days, leave no flesh exposed. If you feel a burning
sensation anywhere, do not ignore it. It is the sensation of skin in the early phase of frostbite.
Dress in layers starting with a wicking fabric next to your skin. A good windproof and preferably breathable outer layer (jacket and windpants) is essential. The temperatures will determine the number of layers between these two.
A thin hat that fits comfortably under a helmet preferably one that is windproof and breathable is also essential because much body heat is lost through the
head.
Your face, hands and feet will be the hardest to keep warm. A thin face mask makes a world of difference. Add a neck warmer and pull it up over your chin as needed. Wear ski goggles and carry a couple of chemical hand warmers along for emergencies.
It is hard to find mittens warm enough for minus 20 degrees and colder. Try a pair of thin gloves inside a wool liner inside a windproof shell on the coldest days. Shoes, wool socks and booties are OK down to 20 degrees or so. Below
that temperature, wear regular winter boots on platform pedals and add extra socks as needed.
Be aware that as you add layers to your hands and feet, you risk cutting off the circulation of blood and the warmth it carries. Fortunately, the cold of winter is progressive which allows a person to find out what works. As the temperature drops, a person can add layers as needed. If the temperature drops 15 degrees or more, and you have not ridden in temperatures that low, be careful. The
difference between 0 degrees and minus 15 is a lot in terms of staying warm. The difference between minus 15 and minus 30 is even greater, but there's no reason why a person can't ride safely in virtually any temperature.
Avoiding freeze-up
Carry ammonia in a water bottle to douse your brake blocks and rear cassette when they load up with warm, wet snow. If you don't, you will experience chain skip as if you were riding on a bike with a worn out drivetrain.
Dedicate this water
bottle to ammonia and remember not to drink from it. Write "ammonia" and "poison" or a skull and crossbones on the outside of the bottle so that others also know not to drink out of it. Do not use antifreeze as it is poisonous to animals who are attracted to its sweet taste in the snow.
If you use up your ammonia supply, use an Allen wrench or other thin tool to clean the rear cassette if it gets loaded up with snow.
Have an emergency plan
Have an emergency
plan in case something goes wrong. Know the places you can pull into if you're having problems. Bring along chemical hand warmers, some basic tools, extra batteries for your blinkers, and a cell phone if you have one.
Winter cycling is more possible now than ever before. It just takes some planning and some precautions like any kind of adventure. You will have to spend some money initially, but you will get years of use out of most of the gear. If you commute as an alternative to driving
a car, what you save in gas will quickly pay for your expenses.
Of course, it's easier to get around in a car. But winter cycling isn't about easier. It's about staying in shape, saving gas, creating less pollution, having fun and seeking adventure. Why limit yourself to a New Year's Day novelty ride when you could be riding every day of the year?
Byron Kuster, 46, is happily married and teaches in a Minnesota state prison. He has commuted to work year-round for the past three
years. He also tries to run a few 10K races and a half marathon each year.
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