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By Robert J. Zimmer The forest echoed with the mad gobblings of a trio of loons, the sun a glowing ember sinking through the pines toward the western horizon. Evening calm settles over Copper Falls State Park and Loon Lake in far northwest Wisconsin near the Lake Superior coast. I am told to expect the best in deep woods adventure here at Copper Falls. My trip did not disappoint.
At the south entrance to Copper Falls, evening mist gathers along the shores of Loon Lake as we pull into camp. Gentle curtains of ground-hugging fog swirl silently in the lowlands. The flaming sunset reflects off the still water and the haunting voices of the loons echo impossibly loud between the canyon walls. Night falls quickly here in the eternal shadows of giant cedar and hemlock. Soon the owls will join the moonlight chorus, the whippoorwills … and finally the wolves. The voices of the night will speak. Drifting across the open water the loons greet the coming night, their ghostly cries rising and falling beneath the thin mist. Mad laughter and sorrowful wails fill the cool autumn air as the birds frolic in the deeper waters far from shore. Summer is drawing to a close.The loons know it, the trees know it – fall has arrived. Established in 1929, the park carries the name of the 30-foot falls that mark the first drop of the Bad River as it cascades through several miles of steep-walled canyons. Downstream, Tyler's Forks River joins the main branch of the Bad River by plunging deep into the canyon over Brownstone Falls. The two rivers join below the falls and surge through a long series of rapids known as Devil's Gate. On either side of the swift-flowing water, the walls of the gorge rise one hundred feet or more. The falls, the rivers and the rock walls add up to a breathtaking and exceptional scenic experience – a landscape full of awesome and rugged splendor. In the 1860s, exploratory mining for copper ore occurred in the canyon of the Bad River here. It is assumed that this search for copper was due to the North's armament needs during the Civil War. Before that, Copper Culture Indians lived here for many centuries mining pure copper for the metal from which they made hunting weapons and tools. The vast parkland is blanketed by a rich forest of cedar, hemlock, maple, birch, red oak and aspen. Cascading streams dance across ancient lava beds and prehistoric ferns and club mosses stand in emerald rank along the many miles of trails. Hiking and backpacking in any season is breathtaking above and below the canyon walls. Morning light graces the woodlands as we set out to explore Copper Falls, the grasses and ferns dripping with sweet fresh dew. The air is autumn-crisp – every breath a billowy plume. The birds do not seem to mind the chill; already the shadows ring with song. Bird life is abundant here, with as many as two hundred species living in or passing through the park in a given year, making the park a haven for hikers and birdwatchers of all ages.
Steep hills and a bouncing landscape make for a great bike ride along the trail system. Your legs will get a killer workout on the path as you travel the twisting, climbing trail through the deep woodlands. The rough terrain is challenging, so be prepared for the ride of your life! For a more leisurely trip, all park access roads as well as the surrounding highway offer beautiful scenery and quiet solitude. A bike ride around the park's own Loon Lake (you'll quickly see where the name comes from when you enter the park) is the perfect way to spend a cool autumn evening. Maples and tamarack burn with fiery color along the narrow lane, the thundering of the falls echoing through the trees. A thin carpet of golden leaves covers the ground and out on the calm waters loons still gobble to the coming night. All of summer's other colorful songsters are gone now, or well on their way. An eerie silence falls over the northwoods. Darkness falls fast and soon after silence, the stars of Orion shimmer on the horizon and wolves howl to the night. This is Copper Falls at its finest. The park has two campgrounds containing a total of 56 wooded campsites. Thirteen of these have electricity. In the southern campground, campsites are slightly more secluded and arranged in loops of four to five sites. In addition, four primitive backpack sites can be reached by following a two-mile hike along the North Country National Scenic Trail. Reservations for these sites are suggested. Fall visitors to the park will find stunning beauty as autumn color reaches its peak near mid-October. Despite the chill of early morning, the air warms quickly under the October sun and temperatures will still soar into the 70s. A morning jog through the vast park leads us down to the falls, the pounding waters shrouded in thin curtains of mist. The air is fresh and crisp and the run is remarkably easy because of it. Jogging along the edge of the deep river gorge is spectacular; we peer down into the steep canyon, dark in morning shadow. The sweet tangy scent of cedar and pine fills the damp air and a pair of croaking ravens squawks overhead. Nothing compares to autumn in the northwoods. Today we plan to drive the short distance north to the Lake Superior shoreline for an afternoon of kayaking. The largest body of freshwater in the world, mighty Lake Superior extends 350 miles east to west and 160 miles north to south, with a surface area larger than the state of South Carolina! A short 30-minute drive brings us to Ashland and the west bay extended north and west to Madeline Island and Bayfield. Rather than drive the peninsula up to the Apostles, we decide to put in at the marina here, the throbbing seas powerful enough to give us a heart-pounding ride. We paddle alongshore past the marina and up the sloping coastline to the giant ore docks and onto the towering shoreline bluffs, 3- to 4-foot swells providing plenty of action. The wind picked up even stronger now, straight out of the northeast, a clearing sky October-blue overhead. The sun lit a fire among the lakeshore bluffs, the towering trees ablaze in autumn gold. Whitecaps flashed snow-white on the deep blue waters – growing more and more ominous – as the wind really began to whip. We headed back to shore. The season winds down, silence fills the woodlands here at Copper Falls. The leaves fall, the wind blows. The water churns, frost deepens. The loons move on. In any season, a visit to Copper Falls State Park and the nearby Lake Superior shore is a voyage filled with awesome rugged splendor. The many voices of the deep northwoods speak to us in a language we long so passionately to hear – the wind and the water, the ice and the rain, the rustling trees and the birds. Take a trip north this autumn, experience the beauty of Wisconsin's Copper Falls State Park. FOR MORE INFORMATION To get to Copper Falls State Park, take Highway 169 north then turn west on County J. The park is in Ashland County, four miles north of Mellen. | |
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Back to the top Waupaca Publishing: 717 Tenth Street * P.O. Box 152 * Waupaca, WI 54981 © 1999-2008 Site last updated 07/01/08 Designed by
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Copper Falls State Park is one of the most beautiful areas in a
region filled with spectacular scenery. Canyons, streams and waterfalls greet visitors to this remote Wisconsin destination. In the heart of Wisconsin's northern lake country, Copper Falls lies deep in the wild northwoods. Over 20 miles of trails snake through the huge park, connecting to the North Country National Scenic Trail which passes through the northern edge. Open year-round, even winter visitors can hike, ski or snowshoe throughout the park and several campsites with
electricity are open for winter use. The beauty of the park is stunning. At any time of year, outdoor adventure is always spectacular.
Copper Falls State Park has extensive multipurpose trails
available for biking, mountain biking, hiking, cross country skiing, snowshoeing, backpacking and running. In addition, a connection to the well-known North Country National Scenic Trail can be made in the northern section of the park.
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