TOURING THE LAKESHORE
Cycling the Maritime Trail along the shore of
Lake Michigan By Robert J . Zimmer
The screaming of gulls greeted the new morning, circling in clouds over the caramel colored surf. A bright sun, cast in orange yellow, peeked through ashen clouds, rays of light reaching down to touch the distant horizon. The waves thundered ashore below the steep banks, washing in over the wide sand beach. The low booming song of the foghorn greeted
the dawn, a magical sound. In the distance, the ivory lighthouse stood tall at the harbor entrance, its whirling light a beakon in the darkness of night and, of course, in the fog.
The water was ice cold, even now with temperatures near 75 degrees. After a long ride from south of the city, through the colorful downtown area and on to the marina, the chilly clear waters felt incredibly refreshing. Sand between our toes was a deeply relaxing feeling as well,
tickling and massaging our feet. Manitowoc sure feels like paradise today.
We started our morning ride just as the sun was breaking the eastern horizon. From a friend's horse ranch just south of Manitowoc, we biked north along the shoreline, taking in the breathtaking views of Lake Michigan from the towering bluffs south of the city limits. Once in town, we rode down to the beach at Red Arrow Park and took in the fabulous
sights and sounds of sunrise over the "big lake." The wind was brisk out of the southwest, building some impressive swells that came rolling in with astonishing power. As the towering waves crashed some distance out, the echoing thunder was a constant rumble in the quiet of morning. They washed ashore with their last remaining strength, the crystal clear waters washing onto the clean, smooth sand with a soft whisper and the
tinkling of countless thousands of zebra mussel shells that washed in with them.
The city of Manitowoc boasts an impressive, accessible lake front from south to north. Nearly the entire shoreline within the city limits is accessible by the public, from Red Arrow Park on the south, to Warm Waters beach and the south pier, to the YMCA beach, the Manitowoc Marina and its heavily publicized walkway out to the lighthouse, and a
long continuous wide sand beach that runs from the mouth of the Little Manitowoc River all the way to the city of Two Rivers some 10 miles north. Beyond that, Neshoto Park and its ocean like beach runs north all the way to Point Beach State Forest and beyond. The beaches are all public access.
Red Arrow Park is a fantastic lake front park, with a few short trails of its own and, of course, the public beach. Next to the park, the historic
tower of Lincoln High School rises high over the lake, situated upon the tallest bluff in the city. Below the school tower, Warm Waters beach, so named for the continuous outflow of heated water from the city's electric plant that feeds into the lake here, is a popular summer swimming spot. This area boasts water that is always bath water warm, even in midwinter. The sand dunes and exposed beach here are impressive, even more so in recent years with the steady but costly drop in lake levels.
From Red Arrow Park, take 10th Street past Lincoln High School, then head east two blocks on the first road leading down the bluff to the beaches below. This road winds along the shoreline north to the car ferry dock and the long south pier and south lighthouse. A ride across the lake on the ferry along with your bike is always an exciting and inexpensive option.
As the sun rose higher, the steady line of salmon boats paraded out of
the river mouth onto the open lake. Gulls flocked around the boats as they travelled out for the morning. A huge skein of double crested cormorants undulated low over the huge waves, heading out south along shore to some rich feeding ground far offshore. Thousands of the goose sized, jet black birds sailed by, only a few feet over the rolling waves, ribbons of cormorants heading out of sight in the distance. And the gulls ...
The city's well publicized plight of the nesting gulls last summer shed some unfavorable light on the city and its handling of the problem. Tens of thousands of ring billed gulls now call the settling area of the impoundment next to the marina home, nesting in a colony that must be seen to appreciate. The sheer noise is deafening; the screaming of gulls never ceases.
Last summer, the city made the unpopular decision of closing the north
pier and walkway out to the lighthouse for the entire summer season in an effort to keep disturbances to the gulls at a minimum, and hence keeping agitated gulls from swarming over the million dollar yachts and sailboats housed in the marina. When that didn't work, an even more unpleasant "solution" was attempted, a limited hunt on the gulls that most biologists and conservationists saw as useless. The birds are already back for this
nesting season, and what will surely be a repeat of last year's fiasco. It remains to be seen what can be done to discourage the gulls from nesting here.
From the ferry dock we took the road back along the beach and continued north along the main street (Eighth Street, one way north), to the colorful and historic downtown. The shops, theaters, riverfront and lake front, as well as the massive USS Cobia submarine docked
permanently here at the Manitowoc Maritime Museum, make this an inviting downtown and we stopped to walk along Eighth Street across the river and back. The submarine docked right downtown is an impressive sight, and open for public tours throughout the season. An inexpensive and educational, if not claustrophobic, side adventure!
From here, we rode north along Maritime Drive, which leads from downtown out to the marina and lake front and on all the way north to
Two Rivers. Maritime Drive directly follows the stunning shoreline and the panoramic views of the wide open lake are simply breathtaking. A newly constructed trail system, the Mariner's Trail, follows the lake shore right atop the sand dunes and bluffs from downtown Manitowoc nearly 10 miles to Two Rivers. Newly paved and completed last summer for in line skating, running, walking and cycling, the trail is probably the most
incredible length of trail I have personally ever ridden. Located a safe distance from the traffic along Maritime Drive (State Highway 42), the entire length of the smooth trail is literally only feet away from the massive dropoff to the wide sand beach below.
From the marina, the trail takes a gradual incline, so be prepared for some extra work for a couple of miles before leveling out the rest of the way to the city of Two Rivers. We stopped at the first wayside/parking
area for another break and to walk the beach and out onto the old piers that still stand against the crashing waves. The wind had stiffened, and the roar of the waves was deafening here where the water ran deeper and the huge lumbering waves crashed right onshore. With lake levels dropping to unprecedented lows in recent years, the amount of exposed sand beach here is unbelievable to long time residents who remember not too long ago when there was no beach at all.
Traffic along the trail was light, probably due to the wind and the early hour. Mariner's Trail does occasionally see some heavy use, but I am always surprised there aren't more people out enjoying the beauty and peacefulness of this wonderful lake side trail.
We biked north, out of the city, heading toward Two Rivers, which lies north and east along the curving coastline. As we get out along the open lake shore again, the wind whips straight off the lake, and the ride is hard
for a while. Luckily we parked one vehicle at a fast food restaurant in Two Rivers, or we would have had one difficult ride back against the strong southwest wind. Waysides and observation areas line the trail between Manitowoc and Two Rivers, and each gives a spectacular view of the lake below. Ten to 20 feet of sand bluff lined with limestone leads down to the water's edge. Even from this height, the crashing surf below sprays us with plumes of water as the waves pound the jutting rocks
below. This is like being on the ocean, literally. Eight foot swells rumble in, dappled sunlight sparkling on each crest as it rolls in on itself and slaps loudly. Swaying beach grasses and colorful columbine line the sand and windswept rocks, dancing in the morning breeze.
The entire length of the trail follows the lake shore to Two Rivers. As we reach town, we are a bit exhausted, but the ride was a stunning one, and
well worth the fight. Definitely one for a quiet, hot summer afternoon.
For those interested in an even longer ride, continue to follow Highway 42 to downtown Two Rivers, and take the first right down to Neshoto Park, another fabulous swimming beach with nearly 1 mile of wide sand beach, as well as trails winding through the southern end of Point Beach State Forest. A quiet ride, then up the access road leading into Point
Beach leads across the inland dunes, with a number of wonderful, scenic side roads leading to and from the lake shore.
Here the forest grows thick, full of ferns and evergreen cedars, and morning riders will encounter deer and other wildlife roadside. This is one of Wisconsins Rustic Roads, and the thick forest grows right to the roadside, a dark and haunting landscape that rides over dunes that reach several miles inland. Leading right to the entrance to the expansive Point
Beach State Forest only a few miles north of Two Rivers, this entire route makes for a beautiful, winding journey. Once at Point Beach, the trails there only add to the quiet solitude of the lake shore region. You won't want to leave!
Other areas in and around the Manitowoc/Two Rivers area make great destinations for family or solo bicycle trips. Lincoln Park Zoo in the city of Manitowoc offers a large, wooded trail system right in the heart of
town. Numerous recreational trails lead along the winding Manitowoc River as it winds its way to Lake Michigan. The downtown area is rich with antique and collectible shops that make for pleasant stops along the way.
In Two Rivers, Neshoto Park and beach again offer nice short trails to satisfy that craving for a quick, peaceful jaunt. Woodland Dunes Nature Center, just outside Two Rivers along State Highway 310 and Woodland Drive, offers another peaceful side excursion, with miles of
wooded trails and a surprisingly high elevated boardwalk that leads for nearly a mile out into the marsh and along the river's edge.
Make the lake shore region of Manitowoc and Two Rivers a part of your summer itinerary. The overwhelming beauty and sheer vastness of the lake and its wonderful seascapes make the Maritime Trail and Maritime Bay well worth the short ride!
| |
