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Here's your guide to portaging all of them Paddling with Mike Svob
Whenever the 430-mile trip is discussed, the most commonly cited reason for not undertaking it is the intimidating presence of 26 dams, most of which are located at hydroplants. Those who paddle a lot know that dams run the gamut from easy and safe to portage to intimidating as hell. Worst of all is the element of the unknown: where to take out, how long the portage route is, where to re-enter the water, what problems to watch out for, etc. For those who are reluctant to undertake so long a trip without doing lots of homework, dam-portage information is hard to come by. Twelve years ago, for example, I obtained from the Wisconsin Valley Improvement Company, the organization that coordinates the hydroelectric plants on the river, a four-page summary of the 26 Wisconsin River portages. The information was rather slim. Fortunately, a much more detailed guide is now available. If you read February's column, you know that John Sullivan, a career DNR water-quality specialist, paddled the Wisconsin River from source to mouth over 13 days in June 2001 and subsequently posted part of his trip-journal on the website www.irishvoyageur.com. In addition, he put together his observations on the 26 dam portages during his nearly two weeks on the river. His notes should be invaluable to all who are contemplating a similar venture on the Wisconsin. Thanks to Sullivan for allowing me to reproduce his dam-by-dam reports here. Beaver dams below Lake Vieux Desert Several beaver dams were encountered during the hour or so run down to the power line crossing. Most were easily passed over from the center channel. However, one huge dam that would have made hydraulic engineers from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers envious required a short pull over (without gear) to descend the 2 feet of head created by the beavers. Although the beaver dams pose a minor impediment to navigation, they also helped raise the stage in this reach, making groundings rare. Otter Rapids Dam in Eagle River (Right bank) The take-out and put-in were well marked and the distance was relatively short. A log or step at the takeout would be helpful. Rainbow Dam (Right bank) Well-marked, easy takeout. The put-in at the tail water was relatively steep, down a short but well-worn trail. Rhinelander Dam (Left bank) Couldn't have been easier. A huge sign and map are located at the takeout, with a phone number posted for assistance. I called the number with my cell phone, and a paper mill security guard showed up in a large truck a few minutes later to haul me and my gear to the put-in about a mile downstream. Hat Rapids Dam (Left bank) The takeout and portage trail were well marked. The put-in is a bit rocky; a couple of logs along the shore would be helpful. Kings Dam (Right bank) The portage marker above the dam was gone, and I later found it lying on the ground on top of the dike. I launched immediately below the dam into the tail water area. This required a descent on a steep riprap slope. A faded portage sign on the dam's dike takes one on an extended hike up over a high hill to a marked put-in farther downstream – a longer route that I chose to ignore. It would probably not be safe to use the route I selected during flood flows. Tomahawk Dam (Left bank) The marked takeout is just to the left of an active osprey nest. A wooden canoe slide is available for the steep grassy descent to the tail water area, but I chose not to use it to avoid additional scratches to my fiberglass hull. A boat ramp is available on the far left descending bank below the dam, but I put in just below the slide. There are considerable numbers of old wooden piers to be avoided adjacent to the earthen dike. It would be beneficial to remove a few of these at the put-in below the slide. Grandmother Dam (Right bank) A large bush obscures the portage sign above the dam on the left descending bank. However, wide concrete takeout steps were easily seen on the right bank just upstream of the dam. A wide wooden stairway is also provided for the put-in below the dam. The relatively short portage route is along a road. Overall, the portage is very well laid out. Grandfather Dam (Left bank) The first portage sign is too far upstream of the intake canal and would tend to lead one to a dead-end backwater area. The portage route is well marked but a bit intimidating, especially entering the intake canal where the velocity increases. The portage route along the leaky, wooden stave pipes is long, but the path is relatively free of thick vegetation. The put-in below the hydroplant is very rocky and turbulent during higher flows. Alexander Dam (Left bank). The easy takeout is just upstream of the beach of Council Grounds State Park. I camped at the park and did not put-in at the designated spot. I walked down the park's metal stairway the next morning to a convenient launching area several hundred feet below the dam. Merril Dam (Left bank) The takeout is on a short but steep grassy bank. The grade for this takeout needs to be improved. It would be helpful to add a sign or two to mark the portage route. Wausau Dam (Left bank, right channel) It is very hard to find or see the takeout signs due to all the bridges. I scraped hard on a hidden submerged rock structure just upstream of the first bridge along the left side of the river. Fortunately, I was not going very fast or the damage would have been much worse. Once you pass under the first bridge you can see a takeout sign that directs you to a nicely mowed bank on the left side of the dam. It would be helpful to have a sign showing the way to the put-in. After I landed above the dam, I did not know where to go. The put-in behind the brick building was a very rocky, shallow water area, which removed additional green paint from my fiberglass canoe. I am wondering if it would have been easier and safer to take an alternative portage along the kayak run through the old east channel. Rothschild Dam (Right bank) The approach to the takeout is completely blocked by old log booms. These obstructions to navigation need to be removed since one is forced to go down the main channel until just upstream of the dam, then make a 90-degree turn to the right bank above opened tainter gates at high flow. Wide wooden steps are provided at the takeout. One additional step nearer the water would make this takeout perfect. A moderately long, well-marked portage takes one to a boat landing below the dam. Mosinee Dam (Left bank) The easy takeout is prominently marked with a large 8-foot by 4-foot sign. A map showing the long portage route is also provided. Better yet, a phone is provided that gives you direct communication with security personnel at Mosinee Paper. One can arrange a free shuttle to the boat landing on the opposite bank below the dam in about an hour or less. I camped at the takeout because I arrived late in the evening, then decided to walk to the put-in because I left early the next morning (5:30 a.m.) before the shuttle service was up and running. It took me only 29 minutes – including time spent taking pictures – to walk to the put-in. Lake Dubay Dam (Left bank) Very nice takeout on a sandy beach above the dam. The portage route was moderately long, with the final descent along a very steep bank with loose stones and rocks – very hazardous footing for carrying packs and a canoe. One wonders if it would have been easier (shorter, at least) to portage the right side of the dam. However, the latter route would require a takeout on the riprap bank, which would be difficult, especially with a northerly wind. Stevens Point Dam (Right bank) A step or log at the grassy bank takeout would be helpful. The portage route follows a roadway to the tail water area. The put-in is a well-worn, heavily fished bank not too far below the dam. Conant-Campbell Dam (Right bank) The well-marked takeout was an overgrown grassy bank immediately upstream of the dike on the right side of the river. A log or step at the takeout would be helpful. Al Tech Dam/Spillway (Left bank) I did not launch into the short pool between dams but proceeded from the Conant-Campbell Dam takeout to the put-in below the Al Tech Dam spillway since this required only about a half-mile walk. Biron Dam (Left bank) This was one of the worst portages of the entire trip. The takeout is extremely difficult due to the steep, granite riprap bank. I actually had to find wooden logs to help me pull my canoe up the rocky bank. The long portage route is not very well marked and was overgrown with brush and had several downed trees. I gashed my thumb on a sharp-edged rock and at one point I got lost. I believe it would have been easier to takeout just upstream of the dam in the corner and then walk over to the tail water area – at least this is what I would do if I did this portage again. By the way, I initially attempted to descend the drainage ditch north of the dike, but one encounters rock dams in this ditch, which does not offer a clear passage to the tail water. Wisconsin Rapids Dam (Left bank) I ignored the well-marked takeout sign immediately above the railroad track and proceeded to the concrete shoreline just upstream of the old municipal swimming pool on the left side of the dam. This reduced the portage by at least a half-mile. No signs mark the portage route, but if you keep the river in view as you walk down the street, you will eventually find a put-in downstream of the Elk's Club about a half-mile downriver. A storm sewer culvert a few hundred feet south of the Elk's club is a convenient place to load and launch the canoe. It would be my recommendation that the current owners of the two previous dams provide a shuttle service around both of these dams. If they can provide this service in Rhinelander and Mosinee, they can surely do it in Wisconsin Rapids. Centralia Dam (Left bank) The marked takeout is adjacent to the No. 18 tee off (dogleg to the right) of a golf course. The route is generally well marked. Just cross the No. 18 fairway and head down the right side of No. 17 along the cart path until you find the sign directing you "out of bounds." A very wide, wooden stairway will lead you back to the river. Very well done. Port Edwards Dam (Left bank) The takeout is up a moderately steep, graded hill. Then a quarter-mile walk along the river through a forested area is required until you reach a fairly steep path that descends to the river. The portage sign directing the turn toward the river was lying on the ground when I went through. I am not sure where one would end up if you missed this turn. Springs ooze out of the ground along the descent to the river, which makes the path slippery and muddy. During periods of high flow, Class I and II rapids will commence immediately after one enters the tail water area. Nekoosa Dam (Right bank) I pulled out at the upstream end of Riverside Park due to an approaching storm. The official takeout is at the downstream end of the park adjacent to a baseball field, and is about a half-mile upstream of the State Highway 73 bridge. Although I did not look it over, I think it would be possible to take out upstream of the bridge, which would shorten the portage considerably. There are no signs marking the portage route. Essentially you pass through Nekoosa to the right of the paper mill, then head along the river until you find a manageable path down to the river. Eventually you will run into a boat landing below Nekoosa, but I put in well above the landing along a moderately steep dirt bank. I would recommend that Nekoosa Dam owners offer a shuttle service due the long portage. They may already do this, but I could not find a phone number for this service at the takeout. The number should be posted near the takeout sign. Petenwell Dam (Right bank) Pray that you don't have strong winds from the north when taking out on the right side of the dam. The marked takeout consists of a relatively narrow concrete ramp inclined at about 40 degrees. Large riprap covers the dike on both sides of the ramp. Off-loading the canoe is extremely difficult in a northerly wind (it was at 10 to 15 mph during my passage of Lake Petenwell). You must literally hurl your gear up onto the riprap, hoping that it doesn't roll into the lake, while at the same time keeping the canoe from being smashed against the rocks or ramp. Once enough gear has been removed from the canoe, you may be able to carefully climb up the wet, slippery concrete ramp while dragging the canoe behind you. A few logs running parallel to the shoreline in front of the ramp would be very helpful at this difficult takeout. The put-in is easy at the landing below the dam. Castle Rock Dam (Left bank) See the comments for the Petenwell Dam, since the takeout is identical at Castle Rock, except for being on the left side of the dam. The official put-in is near the mouth of the Castle Rock ditch that parallels the earthen dike on the east side of the flowage. I chose to use the sandy beach just below the boat landing. Kilbourn Dam at Wisconsin Dells (Left bank) If you have survived canoeing the narrow gorge with its heavy use by powerboats, personal water craft and commercial tour boats, you will find the marked takeout immediately below the Highway 16 bridge on the left bank. The takeout is up a long, steep, completely washed out gravel road. A quarter-mile walk will take you to a steep, gravelly path back down to the river. Prairie du Sac Dam (Left bank) The last dam on the river. The takeout is on the left side of the dam, where wide concrete steps are provided. However, it is impossible to bring the canoe parallel with the steps due to a chain-link fence on the left side. The fence should be relocated so that one can bring the canoe up parallel to the takeout. Alternatively, a few logs could be added in front of the steps. The put-in is immediately below the dam. Due to high flows, the traditional put-in was too deep and carried too much current to load the canoe safely. I moved downstream a hundred feet or so into a quietwater area with willows. Large, sharp-peaked standing waves 4 to 5 feet high will greet you almost immediately at your departure during periods of high flow. Be prepared to take on some water unless you have a canoe cover. The deluge will only last a few seconds and then you are portage-free to the Mississippi. Much of the portaging detailed above was greatly facilitated by a two-wheel canoe carrier. All but my heaviest pack was placed in the canoe during portages. Each portage would have required three or four trips to haul all my gear without the aid of the carrier. Mike Svob is the author of Paddling Illinois, Paddling Northern Wisconsin and Paddling Southern Wisconsin, all published by Trails Books.
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